36803 tmta7

8.    Waist darts

At waist level, form and pin the spare materiał into horizontal darts. One continuous dart may form across the Back, tapering to nothing at the side seams, or two separate darts may form on the two halves. Two darts will form on the Front. They may be horizontal, or they may slope down towards the centre on a maturę model. These darts are quite narrow.

9.    Armholes, toile removal

Go back to the top of the side seams. With the model's arms raised, fit and pin the two sides right up into the armpits, trimming away spare materiał as necessary. At the top of each side seam, on Back and Front, start cutting horizontally to form the armhole, then curve the cut up to the shoulder following the linę of pins.

Check the fit once morę, and check the length: the toile should reach to the tops of the legs. Draw onto the toile the outlines of the two vertical Centre Front darts - remember to draw both sides. Now take the pins out of the two darts and cut carefully up the Centre Front linę to remove the toile from the model.

10. Modelling a toile for a woman

Pin the Back and Front to each other loosely over the model's shoulders, making surę the Centre Lines lie down the centre at the front (broken linę) and back of the body. Pin them together again near the edges, at waist and hip level.

Modelling a toile for a woman, Figs 10-14

11. Back

On each side in tum, smooth the toile horizontally from the Centre linę over the shoulder blade towards the position of the armhole, then smooth gently upwards to the top of fhe shoulder. Re-pin the Back to the Front over the shoulder.

Mark the shape of each armhole with pins, from the shoulder to the broadest part of the back.

On each side in tum, smooth the toile up the shoulder towards the base of the neck, pinning it to the Front in two or three places. If the toile is dragging at the front, snip into the edge under the chin to free it. Trim away the materiał at the back of the neck to form a shallow curve. There should be a little excess width here: pinch it on the Centre Back linę and pin a short vertical dart.

27