38275 tmta5

Chest (with lungs filled)

Waist

Seat

Back length (napę to waist)

Waist to knee Waist to ankle Thigh (at widest point)

Base of neck

Long arm length (over shoulder joint) Arm length (from tip of shoulder)

Top arm Wrist

Hand (smallest loop that will slip over) Body rise (for fitted braies)

3. Measurements for tight sleeves

These may be needed for men's or women's garments.

Shoulder to elbow (over shoulder joint) Elbow to wrist Round bent elbow joint Round forearm

How to proceed

Cut two rectangles of fabric on the straight grain, 10 to 20 cm longer than the model¹ s shoulder to hip measurement, and 10 to 20 cm wider than half the largest body girth - for men this is usually the chest size; for women either the bust or hip measurement. Draw a Centre linę on the straight grain of the materiał down the middle of each piece. These pieces will form the Back and Front of the toile.

The model should wear a medieval shirt or smock, or a T-shirt. Women should not wear a bra, sińce one will not be worn with the finished clothes. They should try to stand in a normal relaxed posturę while you work. Ask the model to rotate his/her arms at the shoulder. You can then feel the bonę structure and position the armhole so that all joint movement occurs in the sleeve. The front armhole should follow the hollow under the collarbone.

Work gradually and evenly during the fitting process, placing pins on both sides of the body as you proceed. Keep the balance between the two sides, centre front and centre back. Snip into the edge when the materiał drags, and trim away the spare a little at a time to avoid taking off too much. Work by smoothing the materiał from the middle of each panel towards the edges, until the toile fits snugly round the body without wrinkles, but with enough ease to move freely. At each stage ask the model to move a bit, breathe deeply and otherwise test the fit.

Modelling a toile for a man, Figs 4-9

4. Modelling a toile for a man

Pin the Back and Front loosely together over the model's shoulders, making surę the Centre Lines lie down the centre at the front (broken linę) and back of the body. Pin them together again near the edges, at waist and hip level.

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