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Madonna of the Yarnwinder

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Page 5

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

Pattern Name:

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

Designed By:

Leonardo da Vinci

Copyright:

Fabric:

Aida 18, White
90w X 126h Stitches

Size(s):

18 Count, 5w X 7h in
14 Count, 6-3/8w X 9h in
16 Count, 5-5/8w X 7-7/8h in
22 Count, 4w X 5-5/8h in

Floss Used for Full Stitches:

Symbol

Strands Type

Number

Color

DMC

154

Grape-VY DK

DMC

161

Gray Blue

DMC

310

Black

DMC

317

Pewter Gray

DMC

340

Blue Violet-MD

DMC

402

Mahogany-VY LT

DMC

413

Pewter Gray-DK

DMC

414

Steel Gray-DK

DMC

434

Brown-LT

DMC

436

Tan

DMC

632

Desert Sand-UL VY DK

DMC

745

Yellow-LT Pale

DMC

779

Cocoa-DK

DMC

783

Topaz-MD

DMC

801

Coffee Brown-DK

DMC

823

Navy Blue-DK

DMC

902

Garnet-VY DK

DMC

921

Copper

DMC

930

Antique Blue-DK

DMC

934

Black Avocado Green

DMC

938

Coffee Brown-UL DK

DMC

975

Golden Brown-DK

DMC

977

Golden Brown-LT

DMC

3031

Mocha Brown-VY DK

DMC

3371

Black Brown

DMC

3747

Blue Violet-VY LT

DMC

3756

Baby Blue-UL VY LT

DMC

3772

Desert Sand-VY DK

DMC

3776

Mahogany-LT

DMC

3799

Pewter Gray-VY DK

—

DMC

3822

Straw-LT

DMC

3823

Yellow-UL Pale

DMC

3826

Golden Brown

DMC

3827

Golden Brown-Pale

DMC

3830

Terra Cotta-MD

(

DMC

3840

Lavender Blue-LT

DMC

3855

Autumn Gold-LT

DMC

3860

Cocoa

DMC

3862

Mocha Beige-DK

DMC

3864

Mocha Beige-LT

DMC

3865

Winter White

Page 6

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

Page 7

Madonna of the Yarnwinder

Usage Summary
Strands Per Skein:

Skein Length:

313.0 in

Type

Number

Full

Half

Quarter

Petite

Back(in)

Str(in)

Spec(in)

French

Bead

Skein Est.

DMC

154

360

0.0

1.000

DMC

161

0.0

1.000

DMC

310

493

0.0

1.000

DMC

317

0.0

1.000

DMC

340

143

0.0

1.000

DMC

402

0.0

1.000

DMC

413

102

0.0

1.000

DMC

414

0.0

1.000

DMC

434

149

0.0

1.000

DMC

436

105

0.0

1.000

DMC

632

274

0.0

1.000

DMC

745

152

0.0

1.000

DMC

779

322

0.0

1.000

DMC

783

145

0.0

1.000

DMC

801

239

0.0

1.000

DMC

823

416

0.0

1.000

DMC

902

206

0.0

1.000

DMC

921

124

0.0

1.000

DMC

930

161

0.0

1.000

DMC

934

382

0.0

1.000

DMC

938

350

0.0

1.000

DMC

975

199

0.0

1.000

DMC

977

273

0.0

1.000

DMC

3031

328

0.0

1.000

DMC

3371

715

0.0

1.000

DMC

3747

695

0.0

1.000

DMC

3756

611

0.0

1.000

DMC

3772

206

0.0

1.000

DMC

3776

387

0.0

1.000

DMC

3799

407

0.0

1.000

DMC

3822

0.0

1.000

DMC

3823

0.0

1.000

DMC

3826

231

0.0

1.000

DMC

3827

279

0.0

1.000

DMC

3830

116

0.0

1.000

DMC

3840

602

0.0

1.000

DMC

3855

206

0.0

1.000

DMC

3860

102

0.0

1.000

DMC

3862

157

0.0

1.000

DMC

3864

0.0

1.000

DMC

3865

1148

0.0

1.000

My Cross Stitch Tips

You may already be an experienced cross stitcher and have a set routine that you are comfortable with. Humor me, though, and go
ahead and read my tips. You never know, I may have come up with something new for you.

Getting the materials

My patterns are designed to fit on the standard aida cloth sizes. It allows for the finished product, plus around two inches or more on
each side for framing at the minimum.

You can use the 14 count size cloth, but if your pattern has a lot of detail, I'd suggest using 18 count instead. It will turn out to be a finer,
more defined piece. If you do use 14 or 16 count, I'd suggest using 3 strands of thread instead of two. It will fill it out more completely.
Be sure to adjust your skein amounts if you do this.

Before you begin

Some of my patterns have a lot of detail and uses a large amount of different colored thread. It's best to get organized first, so it will
make your stitching easier.

This is the way I organize my thread:

I use the card board thread bobbins and have one for each color. Using a pen, I write the number for the color of the floss in one corner.
Using a pencil, I put the symbol that corresponds to that color from the pattern. It is much easier to pull out a color when you're looking
for a symbol, rather than having to refer to the chart each time to know what number the symbol represents. When I'm finished with the
pattern, I can simply erase the symbols at a later time if needed for another project.

Once that is done, I keep all of my bobbins in a plastic craft organizer box. I put them in numerical order. This makes it easier in the
beginning, when I'm not familiar with the symbols and I need to refer to the chart so I can find the color more quickly. After a while, you'll
get to know where each color is located in your organizer.

I also have in the organizer, a small plastic container that holds several needles. I don't know how many times I have dropped a needle
and it's been lost in the depths of the couch! Along with that I keep a small pair of scissors that fold up and fit nicely in the organizer. I
also have a red colored pencil that I will use to circle symbols on the chart. I may have missed a stitch or have nearly finished a section
and circling the unstitched symbols makes it easier to finish up quickly.

I use a scroll to hold the cloth. I find it is easier than using a hoop and keeps the cloth looking neater than not using anything at all. Just
remember, if you do use a hoop, make sure to take it off when you're finished sewing for the day. It will help prevent hoop marks.

To prevent the edges from fraying while you work, you need to bind the edges so to speak. You can cut around the edges using zig zag
scissors, you can use something like Fray Stop or machine sew it. You can also use masking tape on the edges.

Using my patterns

Most cross stitch patterns suggest starting in the middle and working your way out. With my patterns, I’m going to suggest something
different. As you've noticed, my patterns are printed on several pages. I would suggest that you do a page at a time starting with the
first one. You would start in the upper left hand corner then work your way to the right, following the page order. When you reach the
end of that row, drop down to the next row starting at the left again.

You'll notice on the sides of some of the pages, there is a grayed out area. This is the overlap of the pattern. DO NOT STITCH THESE
AREAS. They are to be used as a guide to make sure your counts are in order.

Some people like to put their patterns together and have large sections. You can do this by taping the pages together, making sure to
cover the grayed over lap area. However, the way this material is printed, by folding and unfolding the pages, you may find that the
folded spots wear and the ink may rub off. So if you do it in this manner, please be careful!

I personally use a pattern holder which consists of a metal plate and comes with magnets to hold the pattern in place. It also has a
small magnetic ruler that can help guide me with my counting. I do use it sideways, and have to make one fold in my pattern, but I make
sure to fold it on a grid line to keep the symbols intact.
You can find these in the hobby stores. It is definitely worth buying.

Getting Started

If you decide follow my suggestion of starting with the first page and start stitching in the upper left hand corner, there are a couple of
ways that you can start.

You could take the measurements of the pattern (you'll find the sizes for each count size on the symbol list) and subtract that amount
from the size of your cloth. You can then take that measurement, divide it by two and get the amount you'll need to use to measure over
and down from the edge of your cloth and find your starting point.

However, I never trust myself and would hate to end up with a finished piece that is way off center. So I do it a different way. It does
take a little longer, however. I take the cloth and fold it in half, but not pressing down. I then pinch the center of the fold to make a small
crease. I then fold it in half in the other direction and do the same thing. After opening it up, I then see a small cross in the middle where
I've creased it.

The pattern has arrows printed on the sides of the grid that shows where the center is located. It also has the stitches marked off in
counts of ten. When you find the arrows, you'll be able to see how many stitches it is to the middle. Take that number and start counting
from the center point. I usually go up first, and then start counting again with the next number to the left from that point.

To make the counting easier, and not lose track, I'll take a needle and a single strand of thread and use it to mark off every ten
stitches. I'll bring the needle up through the center (holding the end of the thread with my fingers on the back) count up ten, then bring
the needle back down through that hold. I'll bring it back up one stitch behind that then start counting again and repeat that procedure.
This may seem like a painstaking step, but it sure has helped me keep track of my count. I can always recount the sections of 10 at a
glance. I know I don't have to repeat the count or that I've made a mistake and that my finished piece will be way off center. Once I find
my starting point, I'll start a few "real" stitches beginning with the first color that starts the pattern, then remove the counting thread.

Make sure you don't knot the thread when starting a new color. Run the thread under a few of the finished stitches to hold it in place.
When first starting your pattern, leave about an inch of thread at the end and hold it with your fingers. You can hold it under the area
where you'll be stitching, and catch it with the thread as you make your first stitches.

You should be ready to go now. Just make sure to keep your stitches even and going in the same direction to make more even,
finished piece.

Washing Instructions

If necessary, you may wash your finished piece. Use luke warm water and a mild detergent or dishwashing soap. Always wash by
hand. Rinse well with clear water.

Roll the finished piece between two towels and pat gently. Don't allow the piece to touch upon itself. Unroll and lay flat to dry. Don't
leave it folded. Iron your piece face down between two towels. Use the warm setting and use steam if necessary on creases.

In case of lost or damaged pages

Accidents can happen. If you spill something on your pages and are unable to read the pattern or if you simply lost some pages, don’t
worry. Just send an e-mail to us at support@artofstitching.com and let us know what pattern you have and what pages you need
replaced and we’ll send them to you. Don’t forget to include your name and address.

Have fun and get to work! Happy stitching!

B5200

340

543

730

823

935

3045

3765

3837

Ecru

341

550

731

824

936

3047

3766

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White

347

552

732

825

937

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150

349

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152

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153

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156

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367

581

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950

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598

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300

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301

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