10•1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering

Contents

Front hub bearings - renewal 3
Front swivel hub assembly - removal and refitting 2
Front suspension and steering check See Chapter 1
Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 8
Front suspension anti-roll bar connecting link - removal and refitting 9
Front suspension lower arm balljoint - removal and refitting 7
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting 6
Front suspension strut - overhaul 5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting 4
Front suspension subframe - removal and refitting 10

General information 1
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 21
Power steering pump - removal and refitting 25
Power steering pump drivebelt check,

adjustment and renewal See Chapter 1

Power steering fluid level check See Chapter 1
Power steering system - bleeding 24

Degrees of difficulty

Rear axle assembly - removal and refitting 17
Rear hub assembly - removal and refitting 11
Rear hub bearings - renewal 12
Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting 13
Rear suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting 16
Rear suspension torsion bar - removal and refitting 14
Rear suspension trailing arm - removal and refitting 15
Steering column - removal, inspection and refitting 20
Steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting 22
Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 23
Steering wheel - removal and refitting 19

Track rod - removal and refitting 27
Track rod balljoint - removal and refitting 26
Vehicle ride height - checking and adjustment 18
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information 28
Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure

checks See Chapter 1

Specifications

Front suspension

Front ride height - fully-laden*:

1124 cc and 1360 cc models 177 ± 10 mm
1580 cc and 1761 cc models 185 ± 10 mm
1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 167 ± 10 mm
1998 cc 16-valve models 165 ± 10 mm

* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle

Rear suspension

Rear ride height - fully-laden*:

1124 cc and 1360 cc models 201 ± 10 mm
1580 cc models:

Three-door models 189 ± 10 mm

Five-door models 209 ± 1 0 mm

1761 cc models 189 ± 10 mm
1905 cc and 1998 cc 8-valve models 200 ± 10 mm
1998 cc 16-valve models 199 ± 10 mm

* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle

Steering

Power steering fluid type . Dexron type II ATF

Tyres

Tyre size .. 165/70 R 13, 175/65 R 14, 185/60 R 14 or 195/55 R 15 (depending

on model)

Pressures - (tyres cold): Front Rear

165/70 R 13 tyres 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
175/65 R 14 tyres 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)
185/60 R 14 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
195/55 R 15 tyres* 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.3 bar (33 psi)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or

supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

* Models with these tyres have a "space-saver" spare wheel fitted with a smaller tyre. The smaller spare tyre should run at 2.4 bars (35 psi), noting
the vehicle should not be driven at speeds exceeding 100 mph (160 km/h) whilst the spare wheel is fitted.

Easy, suitable for
novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable

for competent DIY

mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY

or professional

10•2 Suspension and steering

Roadwheels

Type Pressed-steel or aluminium alloy (depending on model)
Size 5B x 13, 5J x 13, 5.5J x 14 or 6J x 15 (depending on model)

Maximum run-out at rim 1.2 mm
Maximum eccentricity on tyre bead locating surface 0.8 mm

Wheel alignment and steering angles

Front wheel camber angle:

Unladen 0° 30' ± 40'
Fully-laden* 0° ± 40'

Castor angle

Unladen:

Manual steering 0° 30' ± 40'
Power-assisted steering 2° ± 40'

Fully-laden*:

Manual steering 1 ° 30' ± 40'
Power-assisted steering 3° ± 40'

Steering axis inclination/kingpin inclination 10° 45' ± 40'
Front wheel toe setting:

Unladen

Manual steering 0 to 2 mm (toe-out)
Power-assisted steering -2.5 to -4.5 mm (toe-in)

Fully-laden*:

Manual steering 1 to 3 mm (toe-out)
Power-assisted steering -1 to -3 mm (toe-in)

Rear wheel camber setting -1 ° ± 40'
Rear wheel toe setting:

Unladen -2 to 2 mm (toe-in/toe-out)
Fully-laden* -2.5 to -6.0 mm (toe-in)

* Fully-laden - 4 occupants and 40 kg of luggage in the vehicle

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspension

Strut-to-swivel hub bolt 55 41
Strut upper mounting bolts 20 15
Strut upper mounting retaining nut 45 33

Lower arm balljoint clamp bolt 40 30
Lower arm balljoint retaining nuts 45 33
Lower arm front pivot bolt 60 44
Lower arm rear pivot bush mounting bolts:

8 mm bolt 27 20

10 mm bolt 55 41

Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to lower arm):

Mounting clamp bolts 55 41
Bar-to-connecting link nuts 30 22
Connecting link-to-bracket bolt 40 30

Bracket-to-lower arm bolts 20 15

Anti-roll bar (models with anti-roll bar connected to strut):

Mounting clamp bolts 55 41
Connecting link nuts 40 30

Subframe mounting bolts 84 62

Rear suspension

Shock absorber upper mounting bolt 75 55
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt 120 89
Rear hub nut:

Models with rear drum brakes 200 148
Models with rear disc brakes 180 133

Torsion bar Torx retaining screw 20 15
Anti-roll bar retaining bracket bolt 35 26

Brake backplate bolts (drum brakes only) 37 27
Rear axle mountings:

Front mounting-to-body nuts 55 41
Front mounting-to-crossmember bolts 70 52
Rear mounting nuts 45 33

Suspension and steering 10•3

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Steering

Track rod balljoint-to-swivel hub nut 35 26
Track rod-to-steering rack 50 37
Steering gear mounting bolts 40 30
Steering wheel nut 35 26
Steering column mounting nuts 17 13
Universal joint clamp bolt 25 18
Power-assisted steering gear fluid unions:

Feed pipe 25 18
Return pipe 20 15

Roadwheels

Wheel bolts 90 66

The independent front suspension is of the

MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The MacPherson struts are
located by transverse lower suspension arms,

which utilise rubber inner mounting bushes,
and incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends.
The front swivel hubs, which carry the wheel
bearings, brake calipers and the hub/disc
assemblies, are bolted to the MacPherson
struts, and connected to the lower arms via
the balljoints. A front anti-roll bar is fitted to all
models. The anti-roll bar is rubber-mounted

onto the subframe, and is either connected to
both lower suspension arms or directly to the
front suspension struts, depending on the
model (see illustration).

The rear suspension is of the independent

trailing arm type, which consists of two trailing

arms, linked by a tubular crossmember.
Torsion bars linking the trailing arms are
situated in front of and behind the
crossmember, and an anti-roll bar linking the
arms passes through the centre of the
crossmember (see illustration).

The complete rear axle assembly is

mounted onto the vehicle underbody by four
"self-steering" rubber mountings. These
mountings are designed to move slightly
under extreme cornering forces. This

movement of the rear axle assembly has the
effect of actually turning the rear wheels
slightly, to help steer the vehicle in the
required direction. This improves the handling

of the vehicle when cornering at extreme
speeds.

The steering column has a universal joint

fitted in the centre of its length, which is
connected to an intermediate shaft having a
second universal joint at its lower end. The
lower universal joint is clamped to the steering
gear pinion by means of a clamp bolt (see
illustration).

The steering gear is mounted onto the front

subframe, and is connected by two track
rods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to the
steering arms projecting rearwards from the

1.1 Cross-sectional view of the front suspension

components

1.2 Cross-sectional view of the rear suspension components

1 General information

10•4 Suspension and steering

1.4 Cross-sectional view of the steering column and associated components

swivel hubs. The track rod ends are threaded,
to facilitate adjustment.

Power-assisted steering is fitted as

standard on some models, and is available as
an option on all others. The hydraulic steering
system is powered by a belt-driven pump,
which is driven off the crankshaft pulley.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the
handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
2 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, using a
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
staking securing the driveshaft retaining nut in
position. Note that a new retaining must be
used on refitting.

3 On all 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
withdraw the R-clip, and remove the locking
cap from the driveshaft retaining nut.
4 Refit at least two roadwheel bolts to the
front hub, and tighten them securely. Have an
assistant firmly depress the brake pedal, to
prevent the front hub from rotating, then using
a socket and extension bar, slacken and
remove the driveshaft retaining nut.

5 If the hub bearings are to be disturbed,

remove the brake disc as described in

2.6 Slacken and remove the bolt securing

the wiring retaining bracket to the swivel

hub

Chapter 9. If not, unscrew the two bolts
securing the brake caliper assembly to the
swivel hub, and slide the caliper assembly off
the disc. Using a piece of wire or string, tie the
caliper to the front suspension coil spring, to

avoid placing any strain on the hydraulic
brake hose. Discard the caliper mounting
bolts - they must be renewed whenever they
are disturbed.
6 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
wiring retaining bracket to the top of the
swivel hub (see illustration).
7 On models with ABS, remove the wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
8 On all models, slacken and remove the nut
securing the steering gear track rod balljoint
to the swivel hub, and release the balljoint
tapered shank using a universal balljoint
separator.
9 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the balljoint to the lower suspension
arm, then withdraw the bolts and free the
balljoint from the arm (see illustration).
10 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivel
hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting
which way around it is fitted.
11 Free the swivel hub assembly from the
end of the strut, then release it from the outer
constant velocity joint splines, and remove it

from the vehicle. If the swivel hub is a tight fit
on the strut, use a large flat-bladed
screwdriver to carefully open up the clamp a

little (see illustration).

2.9 Undo the three lower suspension arm

balljoint retaining nuts

2.11 Removing the swivel hub assembly.

Note the use of the screwdriver to open up

the hub clamp

2.14 On refitting, ensure the swivel hub

clamp is aligned with the lug (arrowed) on

the strut prior to inserting the clamp bolt

A tool to prevent the hub

rotating can be fabricated
from two lengths of steel strip
(one long, one short) and a nut

and bolt; the nut and bolt forming the
pivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to the
hub using two wheel bolts, and hold the

tool to prevent the hub from rotating as
the driveshaft nut is undone (see
Chapters, Section 2).

2 Front swivel hub assembly -

removal and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•5

Refitting

12 Note that all Nyloc nuts disturbed on
removal must be renewed as a matter of
course. These nuts have threads which are
pre-coated with locking compound (this is

only effective once), and include the track rod
balljoint nut, lower suspension arm balljoint
nuts, and the swivel hub clamp bolt nut.
13 Ensure the driveshaft outer constant

velocity joint and hub splines are clean, then
slide the hub fully onto the driveshaft splines.
14 Slide the hub assembly fully onto the
suspension strut, aligning the split in the hub
clamp with the lug on the base of the strut.
Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the front side of the strut,
then fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and

tighten it to the specified torque (see
illustration).
15 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, and
fit the three retaining bolts. Fit new retaining
nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the

specified torque.
16 Engage the track rod balljoint in the swivel
hub, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten it
to the specified torque.
17 Where necessary, refit the brake disc to

the hub, referring to Chapter 9 for further

information. If the threads of the new caliper
mounting bolts are not already pre-coated

with locking compound, apply a suitable
locking compound to them. Slide the caliper
assembly into position over the disc, then fit
the mounting bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque (see Chapter 9).
18 Where necessary, refit the ABS wheel

sensor as described in Chapter 9.
19 Refit the wiring retaining bracket to the
top of the swivel hub, and tighten its retaining
bolt securely.
20 Lubricate the inner face and threads of

the driveshaft retaining nut with clean engine
oil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Use
the method employed on removal to prevent
the hub from rotating, and tighten the
driveshaft retaining nut to the specified torque
(see Chapter 8). Check that the hub rotates
freely.
21 On 1124 cc and 1360 cc models, stake
the nut firmly into the driveshaft grooves using
a hammer and punch.

22 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models,
engage the locking cap with the driveshaft nut
so that one of its cut-outs is aligned with the
driveshaft hole. Secure the cap with the R-
clip.
23 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

3 Front hub bearings - renewal

3.3 Front hub bearing retaining circlip

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted

and pre-lubricated, double-row roller type,
and is intended to last the car's entire service
life without maintenance or attention. Never
overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the
specified torque wrench setting in an attempt
to "adjust" the bearing.

Note: A press will be required to dismantle

and rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is not
available, a large bench vice and spacers
(such as large sockets) will serve as an
adequate substitute. The bearing's inner races
are an interference fit on the hub; if the inner
race remains on the hub when it is pressed
out of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearing

puller will be required to remove it.

1 Remove the swivel hub assembly as
described in Section 2.

2 Support the swivel hub securely on blocks
or in a vice. Using a tubular spacer which

bears only on the inner end of the hub flange,
press the hub flange out of the bearing. If the
bearing's outboard inner race remains on the
hub, remove it using a bearing puller (see note

above).
3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from the
inner end of the swivel hub assembly (see
illustration).
4 Where necessary, refit the inner race back
in position over the ball cage, and securely
support the inner face of the swivel hub.
Using a tubular spacer which bears only on
the inner race, press the complete bearing
assembly out of the swivel hub.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub,
removing all traces of dirt and grease, and
polish away any burrs or raised edges which
might hinder reassembly. Check both for
cracks or any other signs of wear or damage,
and renew them if necessary. Renew the
circlip, regardless of its apparent condition.
6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil to

the bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, to
aid installation of the bearing.
7 Securely support the swivel hub, and locate
the bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully

into position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.

8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,
secure the bearing in position with the new

circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in
the groove in the swivel hub.
9 Securely support the outer face of the hub
flange, and locate the swivel hub bearing
inner race over the end of the hub flange.
Press the bearing onto the hub, using a

tubular spacer which bears only on the inner

race of the hub bearing, until it seats against

the hub shoulder. Check that the hub flange

rotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil or
grease.
10 Refit the swivel hub assembly as
described in Section 2.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the

vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
the appropriate roadwheel.
2 Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake
caliper to the swivel hub, and discard them;
new bolts must be used on refitting. Slacken
and remove the bolt securing the wiring
retaining bracket to the swivel hub, then slide
the caliper assembly off the disc. Using a
piece of wire or string, tie the caliper to the
front suspension lower arm, to avoid placing
any strain on the hydraulic brake hose.
3 On models where the anti-roll bar is
connected to the suspension strut body, undo
the nut and washer securing the connecting
link to the strut, and position the link clear of
the strut (see illustration). Discard the nut - a
new one must be used on refitting.
4 Undo the nut and withdraw the swivel hub-
to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting which
way around it is fitted. Discard the nut - a new
one must be used on refitting.
5 Slacken and remove the two suspension
strut upper mounting bolts.
6 Release the strut from the swivel hub, and
withdraw it from under the wheel arch. If the

4.3 Where the anti-roll bar is linked to the

strut, undo the retaining nut and free the

connecting link from the strut body

4 Front suspension strut -

removal and refitting

10•6 Suspension and steering

Removing the front suspension strut

swivel hub is a tight fit on the strut, carefully
open up the clamp a little using a large flat-
bladed screwdriver (see illustration).

Refitting

7 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position,
ensuring that the top mounting plate locating
pin is correctly located in its hole. Engage the
lower end of the strut with the swivel hub,
aligning the split in the hub clamp with the lug
on the base of the strut.
8 Insert the two strut upper mounting bolts,
and tighten them to the specified torque (see
illustration).
9 Insert the swivel hub-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the front side of the strut. Fit
a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it to
the specified torque.
10 Where necessary, refit the anti-roll bar
connecting link to the strut. Fit a new nut to

the connecting link, and tighten it to the
specified torque.

11 Slide the brake caliper into position over
the disc. If the threads of the new caliper
mounting bolts are not already pre-coated
with locking compound, apply a suitable
locking compound to them. Install the bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque (see
Chapter 9).

12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

4.8 Tighten the suspension strut upper

mounting bolts to the specified torque.

Note upper mounting locating pin

(arrowed)

5 Front suspension strut -

overhaul

Warning: Before attempting to

dismantle the front suspension
strut, a suitable tool to hold the

coil spring in compression must be
obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors are readily-available, and are
recommended for this operation. Any
attempt to dismantle the strut without
such a tool is likely to result in damage or

personal injury.

1 With the strut removed from the car as
described in Section 4, clean away all external
dirt, then mount it upright in a vice.

2 Fit the spring compressor, and compress
the coil spring until all tension is relieved from
the upper mounting plate.
3 Remove the rubber cap, then slacken the

upper mounting retaining nut whilst retaining
the strut piston with an Allen key.
4 Remove the nut and washer, then lift off the
collar, mounting plate, bearing, upper spring
seat and flat washer. Remove the coil spring,
then slide off the damper piston dust cover
and rubber damper stop.
5 With the strut assembly now completely

5.9a Ensure all components are clean and

dry, then slide the rubber damper stop . . .

dismantled, examine all the components for
wear, damage or deformation, and check the
bearing for smoothness of operation. Renew
any of the components as necessary.
6 Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. While holding it in
an upright position, test the operation of the
strut by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
7 If any doubt exists about the condition of
the coil spring, carefully remove the spring
compressors, and check the spring for
distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the
spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there
is any doubt as to its condition.
8 Inspect all other components for signs of
damage or deterioration, and renew any that
are suspect.
9 To reassemble the strut, follow the
accompanying photos, beginning with
illustration 5.9a. Be sure to stay in order, and
carefully read the caption underneath each
(see illustrations).
10 Refit the rubber cap to the top of the strut
piston, then refit the strut to the vehicle as
described in Section 4.

5.9b . . . and dust cover into position on

the strut

5.9c Refit the coil spring, ensuring the

spring end is correctly located against its

stop on the lower seat (arrowed)

5.9d Fit the flat washer to the top of the

strut piston . . .

Suspension and steering 10•7

5.9e . . . then locate the upper spring seat

on the spring, ensuring that the spring seat

stop (arrowed) is correctly located against

the spring end

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove

the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
mounted onto the lower suspension arm,
slacken and remove the two nuts securing the
mounting bracket to the lower arm, then
withdraw then retaining bolts and free the

bracket from the arm. Discard the nuts - new
ones must be used on refitting.
3 Slacken and remove the nut, then withdraw

the lower arm balljoint clamp bolt from the
swivel hub (see illustration). Discard the nut -
a new one must be used on refitting.
4 Lever the arm downwards to release the
balljoint from the swivel hub, and remove the
protector plate which is fitted to the balljoint

shank (see illustration).
5 Slacken and remove the lower arm front
pivot bolt and nut, then undo the two bolts
securing the rear mounting bush to the

subframe (the larger of which is also the anti-
roll bar mounting clamp bolt), and recover the
nut from the top of the subframe. Manoeuvre

the lower arm assembly out from underneath
the vehicle (see illustrations).

5.9f Refit the bearing to the upper spring

seat, ensuring that it is fitted the correct 5.9g Locate the upper mounting plate on

way around the spring s e a t . . .

5.9i Refit the washer and upper mounting

5.9h . . . and refit the collar to the retaining nut, and tighten the nut to the

mounting plate specified torque

5.9j Ensure that the spring ends are still 5.9k With the compressors removed, push
correctly located against the seat stops, the rubber bump stop and gaiter upwards

then release the spring compressors and until they are correctly seated inside the

remove them from the strut upper mounting plate

6.4 Release the balljoint from the swivel

6.3 Removing the lower suspension arm hub, and remove the protector plate from

balljoint clamp bolt the balljoint shank

6.5a Slacken and remove the lower

suspension arm front pivot b o l t . . .

6 Front suspension lower arm -

removal, overhaul and refitting

10•8 Suspension and steering

6.5b . . . and the two rear mounting bush

bolts (second bolt arrowed)...

Overhaul

6 Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the
area around the arm mountings, removing all
traces of dirt and underseal if necessary, then
check carefully for cracks, distortion or any
other signs of wear or damage, paying
particular attention to the pivot bushes, and
renew components as necessary.
7 Check that the lower arm balljoint moves

freely, without any sign of roughness; check
also that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of
deterioration, and is free from cracks and
splits. If renewal is necessary, slacken and
remove its retaining bolts, and remove the
balljoint from the arm. Fit the new balljoint,
and insert its retaining bolts. Fit new retaining
nuts to the bolts, and tighten them to the
specified torque.

8 Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for
signs of wear or scoring, and renew if
necessary.

Refitting

9 Manoeuvre the lower arm assembly into
position, and refit the front pivot bolt,
tightening it finger-tight only. Refit the two
rear pivot bush retaining bolts, and tighten
both to their specified torque settings.
10 Refit the protector plate to the lower arm
balljoint, then locate the balljoint shank in the
swivel hub, ensuring that the lug on the
protector plate is correctly located in the
clamp split. Insert the balljoint clamp bolt,
then fit the new retaining nut and tighten it to
the specified torque.

6.5c . . . then remove the lower arm from

the vehicle

11 Where necessary, align the anti-roll bar

mounting bracket with the lower arm, and
insert its retaining bolts. Fit new nuts to the
bolts, and tighten them to the specified

torque.

12 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the

vehicle and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque. Rock the vehicle to settle the
disturbed components in position, then
tighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to the
specified torque (see illustration).

Removal

1 Release the balljoint from the swivel hub as
described in Section 6, paragraphs 1 to 4.

2 Slacken and remove the three nuts, then
withdraw the balljoint retaining bolts and
remove the balljoint from the lower arm (see
illustrations). Discard the nuts - new ones
must be used on refitting.
3 Check that the lower arm balljoint moves
freely, without any sign of roughness. Check
also that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of
deterioration, and is free from cracks and
splits. Renew worn or damaged components
as necessary.

Refitting

4 Locate the balljoint in the end of the
suspension arm, and insert the three retaining

6.12 With the vehicle resting on its wheels,

tighten the lower arm front pivot bolt to the

specified torque setting

bolts. Fit new nuts to the bolts, and tighten

them to the specified torque.
5 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 10 to 12 of Section 6.

8 Front suspension anti-roll

bar - removal and refitting

7.2a Remove the three retaining bolts . . .

7.2b . . . and remove the lower arm

balljoint

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
both front roadwheels.

2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
mounted onto the lower suspension arm,
slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts
securing the mounting bracket to the left-
hand lower arm, then undo the nut securing

the connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
remove the connecting link and bracket
assembly. Repeat the procedure on the right-
hand side.
3 On models where the anti-roll bar is
connected to the suspension strut body, undo
the nut and washer securing the left-hand
connecting link to the anti-roll bar, and
position the link clear of the bar. Repeat the
procedure on the right-hand side.

4 On models with power steering, using

brake hose clamps, clamp both the supply
and return hoses near the power steering fluid
reservoir. This will minimise fluid loss during
subsequent operations. Mark the unions to

ensure they are correctly positioned on
reassembly, then unscrew the feed and return
pipe union nuts from the steering gear
assembly; be prepared for fluid spillage, and
position a suitable container beneath the
pipes whilst unscrewing the union nuts.
Disconnect both pipes, and plug the pipe
ends and steering gear orifices, to prevent
excessive fluid leakage and the entry of dirt

into the hydraulic system.
5 On all models, using a hammer and punch,
white paint or similar, mark the exact
relationship between the steering intermediate
shaft universal joint and the steering gear
drive pinion. Slacken and remove the clamp
bolt securing the joint to the pinion, and free

the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.

7 Front suspension lower arm

balljoint - removal and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•9

8.10 Slacken and remove the bolt and nut

(arrowed) and remove the anti-roll bar

mounting clamp

6 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
left-hand steering gear track rod balljoint to
the swivel hub, and release the balljoint

tapered shank using a universal balljoint
separator. Repeat the procedure on the right-
hand side.
7 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models with

manual transmission, using a large
screwdriver, carefully lever the three
gearchange linkage link rods off their

balljoints on the transmission unit.
8 Slacken and remove the engine/trans-
mission rear mounting through-bolt and nut.

9 Slacken and remove the four front
subframe mounting bolts which are situated

at the rear of the subframe. Loosen the two
front subframe mounting bolts by a few turns,
until it is possible to lower the rear edge of the

subframe approximately 65 mm. Wedge a
block of wood between the rear of the
subframe and the vehicle underbody, to hold

the subframe in this position.

10 Slacken the two anti-roll bar mounting
clamp retaining bolts, and recover the nuts

from the top of the clamps (see illustration).
Remove both clamps from the subframe.
11 Manoeuvre the anti-roll bar out from
underneath the vehicle, and remove the

mounting bushes from the bar.
12 Carefully examine the anti-roll bar
components for signs of wear, damage or

deterioration, paying particular attention to

the mounting bushes. Renew worn
components as necessary.

Refitting

13 Fit the rubber mounting bushes to the

anti-roll bar, ensuring that the recess on the
inside of each bush engages with the lugs on

the anti-roll bar. Rotate each bush so that its
marking is aligned with the paint mark on the
anti-roll bar.
14 Offer up the anti-roll bar, and manoeuvre
it into position on the subframe. Refit the

mounting clamps, ensuring that their ends are

correctly located in the hooks on the
subframe, and refit the retaining bolts and
nuts. Ensure that the bush markings are still
aligned with the paint marks on the bars, then

9.3a Anti-roll bar connecting link lower

retaining n u t . . .

tighten the mounting clamp retaining bolts to
the specified torque.

15 The remainder of the refitting is a reversal

of the removal procedure, noting the following
points:
(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must

be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated
with locking compound (this is only
effective once), and include the track rod

balljoint nuts, connecting link nuts, engine
mounting bolt nut, and the intermediate
shaft clamp bolt nut. The intermediate

shaft clamp bolt nut is retained by a metal
cage; release the cage retaining tangs,
then remove the old nut from inside the
cage and install the new one. Refit the
cage to the shaft, and secure it in position
with the retaining tangs.

(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque settings (where given).

(c) Align the marks made on removal when

reconnecting the intermediate shaft to the
steering gear splines.

(d) On models with power steering, bleed the

hydraulic system as described in Sec-

tion 24.

(e) On completion check and, if necessary,

adjust the front wheel alignment as
described in Section 28.

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

the front of the car and support it on axle
stands.
2 On models where the anti-roll bar is
connected to the lower suspension arms,

slacken and remove the nut and bolt securing
the link to the lower arm bracket, then undo
the nut and washer securing the link to the
anti-roll bar. Disengage the connecting link

from the end of the anti-roll bar, and remove it
from the vehicle.

3 On models where the anti-roll bar is

9.3b . . . and upper retaining nut - models

with the anti-roll bar connected to the

suspension strut body

connected to the strut, slacken and remove
the upper and lower connecting link retaining
nuts and washers, and remove the link from

the vehicle (see illustrations).
4 Examine the connecting link for signs of
damage, paying particular attention to the
mounting bushes or balljoints (as applicable),
and renew if necessary. It is not possible to
renew the bushes or balljoints separately.
Note that the connecting link retaining nuts
must be renewed as a matter of course.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, using new retaining nuts and
tightening them to the specified torque
setting.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the

vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove

both front roadwheels.

2 Remove the anti-roll bar connecting links as
described in Section 9.

3 Slacken and remove the rear
engine/transmission through-bolt and nut,
then undo the nut and bolt securing the
mounting bracket to the subframe and
remove the bracket.

4 Slacken and remove the three nuts, then
withdraw the balljoint retaining bolts and
disengage the left-hand balljoint from the
lower arm. Repeat the procedure on the right-
hand side.

5 Slacken the steering gear mounting bolts,
and recover the nuts. Withdraw the mounting
bolts, and recover the spacers from the
subframe apertures.

6 On 1580 cc and larger-engined models with
manual transmission, using a large
screwdriver, carefully lever the three
gearchange linkage link rods off their
balljoints on the transmission unit. Slacken
and remove the pivot bolt securing the

selector rod to the gearchange lever.

10 Front suspension subframe -

removal and refitting

9 Front suspension anti-roll bar

connecting link -
removal and refitting

10•10 Suspension and steering

10.7 Power steering pipe-to-subframe

retaining clip

7 On models with power steering, undo the
nut securing the steering gear pipe to its
mounting bracket on the subframe, and free
both pipes from any subframe retaining clips
(see illustration).

8 On right-hand-drive models, undo the nut
securing the clutch cable retaining clip to the
subframe, and disengage the cable from its
retaining clips on either side of the subframe.
9 Slacken and remove the four rear front
subframe mounting bolts and the two front
mounting bolts, then carefully lower the
subframe assembly out of position and
remove it from underneath the vehicle (see
illustrations). On models with power steering,
take great care to ensure the subframe
assembly does not catch the power steering
pipes as it is lowered out of position.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal must

be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated

with locking compound (this is only

effective once), and include the
connecting link nuts, lower arm balljoint
nuts, engine mounting bolt nuts and
steering gear bolt nuts.

(b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque settings (where given).

(c) On completion check and, if necessary,

adjust the front wheel alignment as
described in Section 28.

10.9a Front subframe left-hand rear

mounting bolts (arrowed)...

Rear drum brakes

1 On models with rear drum brakes, the rear
hub is an integral part of the brake drum.
Refer to Chapter 9 for drum removal and
refitting details.

Rear disc brakes

Note: Do not remove the hub assembly unless

it is absolutely necessary. A puller will be
required to draw the hub assembly off the
stub axle, and the hub bearing will almost
certainly be damaged by the removal
procedure.

Removal

2 Remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
3 Using a hammer and a large flat-bladed
screwdriver, carefully tap and prise the cap
out of the centre of the hub. Discard the cap -
a new one must be used on refitting. Using a
hammer and a chisel-nosed tool, tap up the
staking securing the hub retaining nut to the
groove in the stub axle (see illustrations).
4 Using a socket and long bar, slacken and
remove the rear hub nut, and withdraw the
thrustwasher. Discard the hub nut - a new nut
must used on refitting.

10.9b . . . and front mounting bolt

5 Using a puller, draw the hub assembly off
the stub axle, along with the outer bearing
race (see illustration). With the hub removed,
use the puller to draw the inner bearing race
off the stub axle, then remove the hub spacer,
noting which way around it is fitted.

6 Refit the races to the hub bearing, and
check the hub bearing for signs of roughness.

It is recommended that the bearing should be
renewed as a matter of course, as it is likely to
have been damaged during removal. This
means that the complete hub assembly must
be renewed, since it is not possible to obtain

the bearing separately.
7 With the hub removed, examine the stub
axle shaft for signs of wear or damage, and if
necessary renew it. The stub axle is an
interference fit in the trailing arm, and can
either be tapped out of position, using a
hammer and a soft-metal drift, or pushed out
using a heavy-duty bearing puller. When
installing the new stub axle, align its splines
with those of the trailing arm, and drift or
press it fully into position in the arm.

Refitting

8 Lubricate the stub axle shaft with clean
engine oil, then slide on the spacer, ensuring it
is fitted the correct way round.
9 Fit the new bearing inner race, and tap it
fully onto the stub axle using a hammer and a
tubular drift which bears only on the flat inside
edge of the race.

11.3a Tap off the hub centre cap . . .

11.3b . . . then tap up the rear hub staking

using a hammer and suitable punch

11.5 Use a puller to draw the hub

assembly off the stub axle

11 Rear hub assembly -

removal and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•11

11.11a Fit the thrustwasher and new hub

n u t . . .

11.11b . . . and tighten the nut to the

specified torque

10 Ensure that the bearing is packed with
grease, then slide the hub assembly onto the
stub axle. Fit the new outer bearing race, and

tap it into position using the tubular drift.
11 Fit the thrustwasher and new hub nut, and
tighten the hub nut to the specified torque.
Stake the nut firmly into the groove on the
stub axle to secure it in position, then tap the
new hub cap into place in the centre of the
hub (see illustrations).
12 Refit the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.

12 Rear hub bearings - renewal

Note: The bearing is intended to last the car's
entire service life without maintenance or

attention. Never overtighten the hub nut
beyond the specified torque wrench setting, in
an attempt to "adjust" the bearings.

Rear drum brakes

1 Remove the rear brake drum as described
in Chapter 9.

2 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, lever the
spacer out of the rear of the brake drum,
noting which way around it is fitted.
3 Using circlip pliers, extract the bearing
retaining circlip from the centre of the brake
drum.
4 Securely support the drum hub, then press
or drive the bearing out of position, using a
tubular drift which bears on the bearing inner
race.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub, removing all
traces of dirt and grease, and polish away any
burrs or raised edges which might hinder
reassembly. Check the hub for cracks or any
other signs of wear or damage, and renew

them if necessary. The bearing and its circlip
must be renewed whenever they are
disturbed. Note that a replacement bearing

kit, which consists of the bearing, circlip and

spacer, is available from Citroen dealers.
6 Examine the stub axle shaft for signs of
wear or damage, and if necessary renew it.

11.11d . . . stake the hub nut firmly into the

stub axle groove . . .

The stub axle is an interference fit in the
trailing arm, and can either be tapped out of

position, using a hammer and a soft-metal
drift, or pushed out using a heavy-duty
bearing puller. When installing the new stub
axle, align its splines with those of the trailing
arm, and drive or press it fully into position in

the arm.
7 On reassembly, apply a light film of clean
engine oil to the bearing outer race, to aid

installation of the bearing.

8 Securely support the drum, and locate the
bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully into
position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.
9 Ensure the bearing is correctly seated
against the hub shoulder, and secure it in
position with the new circlip. Ensure that the
circlip is correctly seated in its hub groove.

10 Fit the new spacer to the drum, ensuring it
is fitted the correct way around, and use a

tubular spacer to press it into squarely into

position.
11 Refit the brake drum as described in
Chapter 9.

Rear disc brakes

12 On models with rear disc brakes, it is not
possible to renew the rear hub bearing
separately. If the bearing is worn, the

11.11e . . . then fit the new hub cap

complete rear hub assembly must be
renewed. Refer to Section 11 for hub removal
and refitting procedures.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands. Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
2 On some models, note that if the left-hand
shock absorber is to be removed, it will first
be necessary to remove the exhaust tailpipe
and tailpipe heatshield, in order to allow the
shock absorber upper mounting bolt to be
withdrawn. If this is the case, refer to Chapter
4 for information on exhaust system removal.
3 Using a trolley jack, raise the trailing arm

until the shock absorber is slightly
compressed.

4 Free the handbrake cable from its'retaining
clip on the bottom of the trailing arm. Slacken
and remove the nuts and washers from both
the upper and lower shock absorber mounting

bolts, and free the brake hose mounting
bracket from the lower mounting bolt.

5 Withdraw the mounting bolts, noting which
way around they are fitted, and manoeuvre

11.11c Using a hammer and punch . . .

13 Rear shock absorber -

removal, testing and refitting

10•12 Suspension and steering

13.5a Withdraw the shock absorber lower

mounting b o l t . . .

the shock absorber out from underneath the
vehicle (see illustrations).

Testing

6 Examine the shock absorber for signs of
fluid leakage or damage. Test the operation of
the shock absorber, while holding it in an

upright position, by moving the piston through
a full stroke and then through short strokes of
50 to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance

felt should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage, renewal is
necessary. Also check the rubber mounting
bushes for damage and deterioration. Renew

13.5b . . . and the upper mounting bolt

(arrowed)...

the complete unit if any damage or excessive
wear is evident; the mounting bushes are not
available separately. Inspect the shanks of the
mounting bolts for signs of wear or damage,
and renew as necessary.

Refitting

7 Prior to refitting the shock absorber, mount
it upright in the vice, and operate it fully
through several strokes in order to prime it.

Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to

both the shock absorber mounting bolts.

8 Manoeuvre the shock absorber into

position, and insert its mounting bolts; ensure

that the upper bolt is inserted from the inside

13.5c . . . and remove the shock absorber

from underneath the vehicle

of the trailing arm, and the lower bolt from the
outside.
9 Refit the nuts and washers to the mounting
bolts, not forgetting to refit the brake hose
bracket to the lower bolt, tightening them by
hand only at this stage. Clip the handbrake
cable onto the trailing arm bracket.

10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the car to
ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the

specified torque.

11 With the car standing on its wheels, rock

the car to settle the shock absorber in
position, then tighten both the upper and

lower mounting bolts to their specified torque

settings.

12 Where necessary, refit the heat shield and

tailpipe as described in the relevant part of
Chapter 4.

14 Rear suspension torsion

bar - removal and refitting

14.0 Citroen trailing arm positioning bracket dimensions

Note: To ensure the trailing arm is correctly

positioned prior to refitting the torsion bar, a

special bracket is required. This bracket
(special tool number 9501-T.G3) can be
obtained from a Citroen dealer, or
alternatively, a home-made substitute can be
fabricated; the dimensions of the Citroen tool
are shown in illustration 14.0. Note that the
substitute bracket must be accurately
fabricated to be of use.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands. Remove both rear roadwheels, then
proceed as described under the relevant sub-
heading.

Front torsion bar

2 Remove the right-hand shock absorber as
described in Section 13.
3 With the trailing arm unsupported, measure
the distance between the centres of the upper
and lower shock absorber mounting bolt
holes, on the side from which the shock
absorber has been removed, and note this
down; this measurement will be needed on
refitting.

Drill 14mm diameter hole

Suspension and steering 10•13

14. 6 Using a slide-hammer to withdraw a

torsion bar

4 Position a trolley jack underneath the end of
the trailing arm, and raise the jack until it is
supporting the weight of the trailing arm. It is
necessary to support the trailing arm, to
prevent it moving as the torsion bar is
removed. Excess trailing arm movement will
place strain on the brake lines, which could

cause them to fracture.

A tool to hold the trailing arm in
position can be fabricated from a

length of threaded bar, and attached to
the shock absorber mounting bolt
holes.

5 Slacken and remove the Torx screw and
washer from the right-hand end of the torsion
bar. Using a punch or scriber, make alignment
marks between the torsion bar and trailing
arm. Unscrew the retaining nut from the left-
hand end of the torsion bar, and remove the
washer.
6 The torsion bar can now be withdrawn from
the right-hand side, using a slide-hammer
which is screwed into the 8 mm threaded hole
in the end of the bar (see illustration).

14. 10 Using a jacking bolt to draw the

retaining bracket off the end of the anti-roll

bar

7 Once the splines of the torsion bar are
free, the bar can be withdrawn completely
from its location. Note that the front and rear
torsion bars are not interchangeable; the
bars can be identified by the markings on

their shafts. The front bar has one band

painted around the left-hand end of its shaft,
and the rear bar has two bands painted
around its right-hand end.

Rear torsion bar

8 Remove the left-hand shock absorber as
described in Section 13.
9 Carry out the operations described above in
paragraphs 3 and 4.
10 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
anti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-hand
trailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug from
the centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x

1. 5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate its

threads and screw it into the bracket. The bolt
can then be used as a jacking bolt, to draw
the bracket out of position (see illustration).
Once the bracket is free from the anti-roll bar
splines, remove it from the trailing arm, along
with its sealing rings. Discard the sealing rings
- new ones should be used on refitting.

11 Slacken and remove the Torx screw and
washer from the left-hand end of the torsion
bar. Using a punch or scriber, make alignment
marks between the torsion bar and trailing
arm. Unscrew the retaining nut from the right-
hand end of the torsion bar, and remove the

washer.

12 Withdraw the torsion bar from the left-
hand side, using the information given above
in paragraphs 6 and 7.

Refitting

Front torsion bar

13 Ensure that the trailing arm and torsion
bar splines are clean and dry, then lubricate

the splines with molybdenum disulphide
grease. Where a new torsion, bar is being

installed, unscrew the threaded stud from the
original bar, and screw it fully into the smaller-
diameter end of the new bar.

14. 14a Attach the position bracket (1) to
the shock absorber lower mounting bolt

hole as shown, using the mounting bolt

and nut and a suitable spacer

14. 14b Using a feeler blade to check the

positioning bracket-to-crossmember

clearance

14 Ensure the distance between the upper
and lower shock absorber mounting bolt
holes is still as measured prior to removal, and
adjust as necessary. Attach the positioning
bracket (see note above) to the shock
absorber lower mounting bolt hole as shown
in illustration 14.14a. Using feeler blades,
check that the clearance between the inner
edge of the bracket and the edge of the

tubular crossmember is 0. 05 mm. If
necessary, adjust the position of the trailing
arm by tapping it lightly with a soft-faced
mallet until the 0. 05 mm feeler blade is a light,
sliding fit (see illustrations).
15 Where the original torsion bar is being
installed, rotate the bar until the marks made
on removal are aligned, then slide the bar into
position. The bar should engage freely with
the trailing arm splines for the first 8 to 10
mm, and can then be tapped fully into
position using a hammer and a soft metal
drift.
16 If a new bar is being installed, rotate the
bar until the position is found where the bar
can be freely engaged with the first 8 to 10
mm of the trailing arm splines. Having found

this position, tap the bar fully home using a
hammer and a soft metal drift.

17 Once the torsion bar is fully home, refit the

washer and Torx screw to the end of the

It is possible to improvise
torsion bar removal by
screwing a long bolt with a

flat washer into the bar, and placing
the jaws of a spanner against the
washer. Striking the spanner sharply
with a hammer should free the torsion
bar.

10•14 Suspension and steering

14. 17a Refit the offset w a s h e r . . .

torsion bar, and tighten it to the specified
torque (see illustrations).

18 Ensure the trailing arm is still correctly
positioned, then unscrew the threaded stud

from the opposite end of the torsion bar until
its shoulder contacts the trailing arm cup; do
not force the stud against the cup. Refit the
washer and nut to the stud, and securely

tighten the nut whilst retaining the stud with a
small flat-bladed screwdriver (see
illustrations).
19 Refit the rear shock absorber as
described in Section 13, then check and, if
necessary, adjust the vehicle ride height as

described in Section 18.

Rear torsion bar

20 Refit the torsion bar as described above in
paragraphs 13 to 19.
21 Unscrew the plastic plug from the centre
of the opposite anti-roll bar retaining bracket,
and screw a short 8 mm bolt and washer into

the end of the anti-roll bar. Securely tighten
the bolt to hold the anti-roll bar in position.
22 Apply a smear of the special grease
(Mobil Temp G9, available from your Citroen
dealer) to the new sealing rings, and fit them
to the anti-roll bar bracket. In the absence of
the special grease, a good-quality
molybdenum disulphide grease can be used.
23 Insert the retaining bracket into position in
the trailing arm, aligning its retaining bolt hole

with that of the trailing arm, and engage it with
the anti-roll bar splines. Using a soft-faced

14. 1 7 b . . . and the retaining screw to the

end of the torsion b a r . . .

mallet, tap the bracket into position until the
clearance between the inside of the bracket
and the trailing arm is 1. 0 mm; this can be

checked using a feeler blade. If the bracket is
a tight fit on the anti-roll bar splines, screw a
long 8 mm bolt, nut and washer into the end
of the anti-roll bar. The bracket can then be
drawn into position by tighten the nut (see
illustration 16. 13b).

24 Once the bracket is correctly positioned,
refit its retaining bolt, not forgetting to position

the handbrake cable bracket underneath it,
and tighten it to the specified torque setting.

Unscrew the bolt(s) from the end(s) of the anti-

roll bar, then wipe clean the threads of the
retaining bracket holes. Apply a smear of
sealant to the plugs, and refit them to the
brackets.

25 Refit the rear shock absorber as
described in Section 13, then check and, if
necessary, adjust the vehicle ride height as
described in Section 18.

15 Rear suspension trailing

arm - removal and refitting

Note: To ensure the trailing arm is correctly

positioned on refitting, a special bracket is
required. This bracket (special tool number
9501-T. G3) can be obtained from a Citroen
dealer, or alternatively, a home-made
substitute can be fabricated; the dimensions
of the Citroen tool are shown in illustration

14. 1 7 c . . . and tighten the screw to the

specified torque

14. 18a Screw the threaded stud out from

the end of the opposite end of the bar until

it just contacts the cup

14. 18b Refit the washer and retaining nut,

and securely tighten the nut whilst

retaining the stud with the screwdriver

14. 0. Note that the substitute bracket must be

accurately fabricated to be of use.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.
2 Remove the relevant shock absorber as
described in Section 13.
3 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the

anti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-hand
trailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug from
the centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x
1.5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate its

threads and screw it into the bracket. The bolt
can then be used as a jacking bolt, to draw
the bracket out of position. Once the bracket
is free from the anti-roll bar splines, remove it

from the trailing arm, along with its sealing
rings. Discard the sealing rings - new ones
should be used on refitting. Proceed as
described under the relevant sub-heading.

Rear drum brakes

4 Remove the brake drum as described in
Chapter 9.
5 Work back along the length of the brake
pipe/hose, and remove any retaining clips

securing it to the trailing arm. Note that on
some models, it may be necessary to split the
brake hose at its union in order to free it from
the trailing arm bracket; refer to Chapter 9 for

further information.
6 Undo the four bolts and washers securing
the brake backplate to the trailing arm.
Carefully ease the backplate assembly over

the end of the stub axle, and position it clear
of the trailing arm. Tie the backplate assembly
to the vehicle underbody, to prevent undue
strain being placed on the brake pipe.
7 Remove the relevant torsion bar as
described in Section 14.

8 The trailing arm can then be withdrawn
from the crossmember, and removed from the
vehicle.
9 Inspect the trailing arm bearings, axle tube

tracks and crossmember outer sleeves for
signs of wear and damage. If renewal is
necessary, the task should be entrusted to a
Citroen dealer. The bearing renewal
procedure involves the use of numerous

Suspension and steering 10•15

15. 15 Ensure the seal (1) is fitted the

correct way around, and is correctly

located on the trailing arm shoulder (a)

special tools to remove the original bearings
and install the new ones. Attempting to install
the bearings without these special tools will
almost certainly lead to damage during fitting.

Rear disc brakes

10 Work back along the length of the brake
hose/pipe, and remove any retaining clips

securing it to the trailing arm. Note that on
some models, it may be necessary to split the
brake hose at its union in order to free it from
the trailing arm bracket; refer to Chapter 9 for
further information. On models with ABS,
trace the wiring back from the wheel sensor,
and disconnect it at the wiring connector.
11 Slacken the two bolts securing the caliper
assembly to the trailing arm, and remove them
along with the mounting plate, noting which
way around the plate is fitted. Discard the
caliper mounting bolts - they should be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
12 Slide the caliper assembly off the brake
disc. Where the brake hose/pipe has not been
split, tie the caliper to the vehicle underbody,
to prevent any undue strain being placed on
the brake hose.
13 Remove the relevant torsion bar as
described in Section 14.
14 The trailing arm can then be withdrawn
from the crossmember, and examined as
described above in paragraph 9.

Refitting

15 Prior to refitting, inspect the trailing arm
seal for signs of wear or damage, and renew if
necessary. Ensure the new seal is installed the
correct way around, and is pressed fully onto
the trailing arm (see illustration).
16 Goat the lips of the seal, and the bearing
and bearing tracks, with a smear of the
special grease (Total Multis G6, available from
your Citroen dealer). In the absence of the
special grease, a good-quality molybdenum
disulphide grease can be used.
17 Slide the trailing arm into position in the
crossmember, until its seal is against the
crossmember sleeve. Support the trailing arm
so that the distance between the upper and
lower mounting bolt holes is as noted prior to
removal.

16. 5a Slide the inner.

18 Refit the torsion bar as described in
paragraphs 13 to 18 of Section 14.

Rear drum brakes

19 Ensure the mating surfaces of the brake
backplate and trailing arm are clean and dry.
Locate the backplate over the stub axle, then
refit its retaining bolts and tighten them to the

specified torque setting.
20 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket as
described in paragraphs 21 to 24 of Sec-
tion 14.
21 Reconnect the brake pipe/hose (where
split), and ensure the brake pipe/hose and
handbrake cable are securely retained by all
the necessary fasteners. Refit the brake drum,
referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9.
22 Refit the rear shock absorber as
described in Section 13, then check and, if
necessary, adjust the vehicle ride height as
described in Section 18.

Rear disc brakes

23 Slide the caliper into position over the

brake disc.

24 If the threads of the new caliper mounting

bolts are not already pre-coated with locking
compound, apply a suitable locking
compound to them. Install the new caliper
mounting bolts and the mounting plate, noting

that the mounting plate must be fitted so that
its bend curves away from the caliper body.
With the plate correctly positioned, tighten the
caliper bolts to the specified torque setting
(see Chapter 9).
25 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket as
described in paragraphs 21 to 24 of Sec-
tion 14.
26 Reconnect the brake pipe/hose (where
split), and ensure the brake hose/pipe and
handbrake cable are securely retained by all
the necessary fasteners. Where necessary,
reconnect the ABS wheel sensor wiring
connector, referring to Chapter 9 for further
information.
27 Refit the rear shock absorber as
described in Section 13. Check and, if
necessary, adjust the vehicle ride height as
described in Section 18.

16. 5 b . . . and outer sealing rings off the

anti-roll bar

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.

2 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
anti-roll bar retaining bracket to the right-hand
trailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug from
the centre of the bracket. Obtain a 12 x

1.5 mm bolt at least 70 mm long, lubricate its

threads and screw it into the bracket. The bolt
can then be used as a jacking bolt, to draw
the bracket out of position. Once the bracket
is free from the anti-roll bar splines, remove it
from the trailing arm, along with its sealing
rings. Discard the sealing rings - new ones
should be used on refitting.

3 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
anti-roll bar retaining bracket to the left-hand
trailing arm, and unscrew the plastic plug from
the centre of the bracket.
4 The anti-roll bar and right-hand retaining
bracket assembly can now be withdrawn from
the left-hand side, using a slide-hammer
which is screwed into the 8 mm threaded hole
in the end of the anti-roll bar. It is possible to
improvise by screwing a long bolt with a flat
washer into the bar, and placing the jaws of a
spanner against the washer. Striking the
spanner sharply with a hammer should free
the torsion bar. Alternatively, the bar can be
tapped out of position, using a hammer and a
soft-metal drift on the exposed right-hand end
of the bar.

5 Remove the sealing rings from the left-hand
end of the bar (see illustrations).
6 If it is wished, the anti-roll bar and left-hand
retaining bracket can be separated using the
jacking bolt (see paragraph 2). Prior to
separation, make alignment marks between
the bar and bracket.
7 Inspect the anti-roll bar and retaining
brackets for signs of wear or damage, and
renew if necessary. The sealing rings should

be renewed as a matter of course.

16 Rear suspension anti-roll

bar - removal and refitting

10•16 Suspension and steering

16. 9a If a new anti-roll bar is being

installed, align the cut-out (arrowed) with

the bracket retaining bolt hole

16. 11a Refit the anti-roll bar and bracket

assembly to the v e h i c l e . . .

16. 1 1 b . . . then refit the retaining bracket
bolt, and tighten it to the specified torque

16. 9b Using a nut and bolt to draw the

retaining bracket into position on the anti-

roll bar

Refitting

8 Ensure the splines of the anti-roll bar and
retaining bracket(s) are clean and dry, then
apply a smear of the special grease (Mobil
Temp G9, available from your Citroen dealer)

to them and the new sealing rings. In the
absence of the special grease, a good-
quality molybdenum disulphide grease can
be used.

9 If the left-hand retaining bracket and anti-
roll bar were separated, refit the bracket to the

bar, aligning the marks made on removal. If a

new bar or bracket is being fitted, align the
bracket retaining bolt hole with the cut-out on

the end of the anti-roll bar. Tap the bracket
fully onto the splines using a soft-faced
mallet. If the bracket is a tight fit on the anti-
roll bar splines, screw a long 8 mm bolt, nut
and washer into the end of the anti-roll bar.

The bracket can then be drawn into position

by tightening the nut (see illustrations).
10 Screw a short 8 mm bolt and washer into

the left-hand end of the anti-roll bar, and
tighten it securely (see illustration). This will
ensure that the bar and bracket will stay
correctly engaged during the refitting
procedure.
11 Slide the new sealing rings onto the anti-
roll bar, then slide the bar into position from

the left-hand side of the vehicle. Refit the
retaining bracket bolt, not forgetting to

16. 10 Secure the left-hand bracket in

position with a short 8 mm bolt and

washer before refitting the anti-roll bar to

the vehicle

position the handbrake cable bracket
underneath it, and tighten it to the specified

torque setting (see illustrations).

12 Fit the new sealing rings to the right-hand
retaining bracket.
13 Insert the right-hand retaining bracket into

position in the trailing arm, aligning its
retaining bolt hole with that of the trailing arm,
and engage it with the anti-roll bar splines.
Using a soft-faced mallet, tap the bracket into

position until the clearance between-the inside
of the bracket and the trailing arm is 1. 0 mm;

this can be checked using a feeler blade. If the

bracket is a tight fit on the anti-roll bar splines,
screw a long 8 mm bolt, nut and washer into

the end of the anti-roll bar. The bracket can
then be drawn into position by tightening the
nut (see illustrations).

14 Once the bracket is correctly positioned,

refit its retaining bolt, not forgetting to position
the handbrake cable bracket underneath it,
and tighten it to the specified torque (see
illustrations).
15 Unscrew the bolt(s) from the end(s) of the

anti-roll bar, then wipe clean the threads of
the retaining bracket holes. Apply a smear of
sealant to the threads of the plastic plugs, and
refit them to the brackets (see illustration).
16 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car to

ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque.

16. 13a Fit the new sealing rings to the

right-hand retaining bracket, then refit the

bracket to the anti-roll bar

16. 13b Using a nut and bolt arrangement

to draw the right-hand bracket into

position, whilst using a feeler blade to

measure bracket-to-arm clearance

16. 14a Refit the handbrake cable bracket
to the trailing arm, then refit the retaining

bracket b o l t . . .

Suspension and steering 10•17

16.14b . . . and tighten it to the specified

torque

Removal

1 Remove the rear seat assembly as
described in Chapter 11.

2 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear roadwheels, then
lower the spare wheel out from underneath
the rear of the vehicle, and unhook the wheel
carrier.
3 Remove the exhaust system and heat
shield(s) as described in Chapter 4.

4 Remove the handbrake lever cover, and
fully slacken the handbrake cable adjuster
nut. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.
5 On models with rear drum brakes,
disconnect both cables from the handbrake
lever. From underneath the vehicle, work
along the length of each cable, and free them
from any retaining clips which secure them to

the vehicle underbody.
6 On models with rear disc brakes, free the
end of the handbrake inner cable from the
caliper handbrake lever, then tap the outer
cable out of the caliper using a hammer and
punch. Where necessary, disconnect the ABS
wheel sensors at the wiring connectors, and
free them from any retaining clips.
7 Trace the brake pipes back from the
caliper/backplate to their unions, which are
situated just in front of the rear axle assembly.
Slacken the union nuts, and disconnect the
pipes. Plug the pipe ends, to minimise fluid
loss and prevent the entry of dirt into the
hydraulic system. Remove any retaining clips
securing the rear section of the pipe to the

vehicle underbody.
8 Make a final check that all necessary
components have been disconnected and
positioned so that they will not hinder the
removal procedure, then position a trolley jack
beneath the centre of the rear axle assembly.
Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight
of the axle.
9 Remove the luggage compartment lower
side trim panels as described in Chapter 11.

16.15 Apply a smear of sealant to the

threads of the plastic plugs, and refit them

to the retaining brackets

Lift up the rear luggage compartment carpet

to gain access to the rear axle retaining nuts.
Slacken and remove the two retaining nuts
and washers from each front mounting
assembly, and the single nut and washer
securing each rear mounting assembly to the
vehicle.

10 Carefully lower the jack and axle
assembly out of position, and remove it from
underneath the vehicle.
11 Examine the rear axle mountings for signs

or damage or deterioration of the mounting
rubber, and renew if necessary. Note that all
four mountings should be renewed as a set;
do not renew the mountings individually.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, bearing in mind the following
points:

(a) Raise the rear axle assembly into position,

and tighten the mounting retaining nuts to

their specified torque settings.

(b) Ensure the brake pipes, handbrake cables

and wiring (as applicable) are correctly
routed, and retained by all the necessary
retaining clips.

(c) Securely tighten the brake pipe union

nuts.

(d) Adjust the handbrake cable as described

in Chapter 9.

(e) On completion, lower the vehicle to the

ground, and bleed the braking system
hydraulic circuit as described in Chap-

ters.

(f) Check and, if necessary, adjust the

vehicle ride height as described in
Section 18.

Checking

1 Position the unladen vehicle on a level
surface, with the tyres correctly inflated; roll

the vehicle backwards and forwards, to

relieve any stress in the suspension
components. For the ride height
measurements to be accurate, the vehicle
must be loaded with the equivalent of 4
occupants and approximately 40 kg of
luggage.
2 The front ride height is measured between
the centre of the front lower suspension arm
pivot and the ground; the rear ride height
measurement is taken between the lower
edge of the 58 mm section of the tubular
crossmember and the ground (see
illustration).
3 Take three measurements on the right-hand
side of the vehicle, then take the average of
these three to be the correct right-hand
height. Repeat the procedure on the left-hand
side, to find the correct left-hand height. Note
that the maximum permissible difference
between the left- and right-hand side is

10 mm. Add both the left- and right-hand side

averages together, and divide by two to
obtain the correct vehicle ride height.
4 Compare the measurement obtained with
those given in the Specifications at the start of
this Chapter.
5 If the front ride height differs significantly
from that specified, one OT the suspension

Front axle

Rear axie

18.2 Vehicle front (a) and rear (b) ride height measurement points

17 Rear axle assembly -

removal and refitting

18 Vehicle ride height -

checking and adjustment

10•18 Suspension and steering

components must be worn or damaged; no
adjustment is possible. Inspect all the front
suspension components for signs of wear or
damage, such as worn bushes, and renew
components as necessary. If no sign of
damage can be found, the vehicle should be

taken to a Citroen dealer for a more detailed
examination.
6 If the rear ride height differs from that
specified, adjust it as follows.

Adjustment (rear ride height only)

7 Determine the amount of adjustment
required. The rear suspension height can be
adjusted in multiples of 3 mm, by rotating the
rear torsion bars. If adjustment is necessary,
determine the number of splines the torsion
bar must be moved, noting that one spline is

equal to roughly 3 mm of ride height. For
example, if the ride height needs adjusting by
10 mm, the torsion bar should be moved by

three splines. If the height difference between
sides was excessive, compensate for this
during the adjustment procedure.
8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear roadwheels.

9 Working first on the left-hand side, remove
the rear torsion bar as described in Sec-
tion 14.
10 Noting that a 2 mm change in distance
between the rear shock absorber mounting
bolt holes equals a 3 mm change in ride
height, or one spline of torsion bar movement,
raise or lower the trailing arm by the required

amount. Note that increasing the distance
between the bolt holes increases ride height,
and decreasing the distance lowers the ride
height; if the ride needs lowering by 9 mm,
decrease the distance between the shock
absorber mounting bolt holes by 6 mm by
raising the trailing arm.
11 Rotate the torsion bar by the required
number of splines and in the required

direction, and relocate it with the trailing arm
splines. The bar should engage freely with the

trailing arm splines for the first 8 to 10 mm,
and can then be tapped into fully into position

using a hammer and a soft metal drift.
12 Refit the anti-roll bar retaining bracket as
described in Section 14.
13 Remove the front torsion bar as described

19.2a Remove the centre pad . . .

in Section 14, and repeat the procedure

described in paragraphs 10 and 11 on the
right-hand side. Secure the bar in position as
described in Section 14.
14 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the car to
ground and tighten the roadwheel bolts to the

specified torque.
15 With the car standing on its wheels, rock
the car to settle the disturbed suspension
components, then tighten the shock absorber
mounting bolts to the specified torque

settings.
16 Recheck the vehicle ride heights as
described earlier in this Section and, if
necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Note that it may be necessary to adjust the
headlight beam alignment, referring to

Chapter 12 for further information.

Removal

1 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position, and release the steering lock by
inserting the ignition key.

2 Carefully ease off the steering wheel centre
pad, then slacken and remove the steering
wheel retaining nut (see illustrations).
3 Mark the steering wheel and steering
column shaft in relation to each other, then lift

the steering wheel off the column splines. If it
is tight, tap it up near the centre, using the
palm of your hand, or twist it from side to side,

19.4a Indicator cancelling lug is secured to

the base of the steering wheel by a circlip

19.2b . . . then slacken and remove the

steering wheel retaining nut

whilst pulling upwards to release it from the
shaft splines.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points:
(a) Check the indicator cancelling lug fitted to

the rear of steering wheel is in good
condition, and if necessary renew it. The

lug is retained by a circlip (see
illustration).

(b) Prior to refitting, ensure that the indicator

switch stem is in its central position.
Failure to do this could lead to the
steering wheel lug breaking the switch tab

as the steering wheel is refitted.

(c) On refitting, align the marks made on

removal, and tighten the retaining nut to
the specified torque (see illustration).

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2 Remove the steering wheel as described in
Section 19.
3 Release the panel fasteners by rotating
them through a quarter of a turn, and remove

the driver's side lower facia panel.
4 Slacken and remove the five screws which
secure the two halves of the steering column
shrouds together, then remove both the upper
and lower shroud (see illustrations).

19.4b Tighten the steering wheel retaining

nut to the specified torque

20.4a Undo the five steering column

shroud retaining screws (arrowed)...

19 Steering wheel -

removal and refitting

20 Steering column - removal,

inspection and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•19

20.4b . . . then remove the both the

l o w e r . . .

20.4c . . . and upper shroud sections

20.6 Disconnecting the ignition switch

wiring connectors

5 Release the facia felt undercover retaining
clips, and peel back the material. Release the
heater duct, and remove the duct to gain
access to the steering column mountings.
6 Tilt the steering column fully downwards,
and disconnect the wiring connectors from
the steering column combination switches
and the three wiring connectors from the
ignition switch (see illustration). Free the
wiring from any relevant retaining clips.
7 Make alignment marks between the
universal joint on the base of the steering
column and the intermediate shaft, then
slacken and remove the universal joint clamp
bolt.
8 Slacken and remove the four steering
column mounting nuts, then release the
steering column from its mountings, and
recover the column mounting spacers from
the lower mounting studs (see illustration).
Disengage the universal joint from the
intermediate shaft, and remove the steering
column assembly from the vehicle.
9 To remove the intermediate shaft, firmly
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Disengage the rubber gaiter from the floor,
and slide it off the end of the shaft. Make
alignment marks between the universal joint
on the base of the intermediate shaft and
steering gear pinion, then slacken and
remove the universal joint clamp bolt (see

illustrations). Release the shaft from the
pinion splines, and remove it from the
vehicle.

Inspection

10 The steering column incorporates a

telescopic safety feature. In the event of a
front-end crash, the shaft collapses and

prevents the steering wheel injuring the driver.
Before refitting the steering column, examine

the column and mountings for signs of

damage and deformation, and renew as
necessary.
11 Check the steering shaft for signs of free
play in the column bushes, and check the
universal joints for signs of damage or
roughness in the joint bearings. If any damage
or wear is found on the steering column

universal joints or shaft bushes, the column
must be renewed as an assembly. Inspect the
column lower mounting rubbers for signs of
damage or deterioration, and renew if
necessary.
12 The steering column nuts (and, where
disturbed, the intermediate shaft clamp bolt
nuts) must be renewed as a matter of course.
Each nut is retained by a metal cage; release
the cage retaining tangs, then remove the old
nut from inside the cage and install the new
one. Refit the cage, and secure it in position
with the retaining tangs (see illustration).

Refitting

13 Where removed, refit the intermediate

shaft, aligning the marks made prior to
removal, and engaging the universal joint with
the steering gear drive pinion splines. Refit the
shaft clamp bolt, and tighten it to the
specified torque setting. Slide the rubber
gaiter down the intermediate shaft, and locate

it in the floorpan.
14 Manoeuvre the steering column assembly
into position then, aligning the marks made
prior to removal, engage the universal joint
with the intermediate shaft splines.
15 Fit the column over its mounting studs,
and refit the steering column mounting nuts,

20.8 Steering column lower mounting nuts

(arrowed)

20.9a From inside the vehicle, slide the

rubber gaiter off the intermediate shaft..

20.9b . . . then slacken and remove the

universal joint clamp bolt, and free the

shaft from the steering gear

20.12 Ensure the universal joint clamp bolt

nut cage is securely held in position by its

retaining tangs (arrowed)

10•20 Suspension and steering

20.15a Ensure the mounting rubbers and

spacers are correctly positioned on the

column lower mountings . . .

not forgetting the lower mounting stud
spacers, and tighten them to the specified

torque (see illustrations).
16 Position the column universal joint on the
intermediate shaft, so that the top of the

steering shaft protrudes from the top of the
steering column by 58 mm (see illustration).
Once correctly positioned, refit the clamp bolt

and tighten it to the specified torque.
17 Ensuring that the wiring is correctly routed
and retained by any necessary retaining clips,
reconnect the wiring connectors to the

combination switches and the ignition switch.
18 Refit the heater duct, ensuring that it is

correctly seated at each end, and clip the
undercover back into position.
19 Position the upper and lower column

shrouds around the steering column, then refit
the retaining screws and tighten them

securely.
20 Refit the lower facia panel, and secure it in
position by rotating the fasteners through a
quarter of a turn.

21 Refit the steering wheel as described in
Section 19.
22 Release the column tilt lever, check that
the column moves freely, then lock the lever

and check the column is securely held. If
adjustment is necessary, working through the
aperture in the lower shroud, slacken the lever
locknut, then slacken the adjuster nut until the
column moves freely with the lever released

20.15b . . . then refit the steering column

to the vehicle

and locks securely with the lever locked. Note

that on some models, a single Nyloc nut is

used instead of the locknut and adjuster nut

arrangement. Where necessary, hold the
adjuster nut stationary and securely tighten

the locknut. Check the operation of the lever
and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment
procedure. If a Nyloc nut is fitted, it may be
necessary to renew it, to restore its
effectiveness.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2 Working inside the car, release the panel
fasteners by rotating them through a quarter

of a turn, and remove the driver's side lower
facia panel.
3 Slacken and remove the five screws which
secure the two halves of the steering column

shrouds together, then remove the lower
shroud.

4 Tilt the steering column fully downwards,
then trace the wiring back from the ignition
switch, and disconnect its three wiring
connectors from the main wiring loom.

5 Slacken and remove the lock retaining
screw and washer from the side of the lock
(see illustration).

20.16 Adjust the position of the steering

shaft as described in text prior to

tightening the universal joint clamp bolt

6 Insert the key, and rotate it so that is
aligned with the mark positioned between the
"A" and "S" marks on the barrel. Using a small

flat-bladed screwdriver, depress the lock

retaining lug, then withdraw the lock assembly

from the steering column (see illustrations).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the lock assembly is
securely held in position by its retaining lug.
Prior to refitting the column shroud, remove

the ignition key and check that the steering
lock functions correctly.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the

handbrake, then jack up the front of the

vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove
both front roadwheels.

2 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the
steering gear track rod balljoints to the swivel
hubs, and release the balljoint tapered shanks
using a universal balljoint separator.

3 Using a hammer and punch, white paint or
similar, mark the exact relationship between

the intermediate shaft universal joint and the
steering gear drive pinion. Slacken and

21.5 Ignition switch/steering column lock

retaining screw (arrowed)

21.6a Insert the key, positioning it as

described in the text, then depress the

lock retaining lug . . .

21.6b . . . and withdraw the lock assembly

from the steering column

21 Ignition switch/steering column

lock - removal and refitting

22 Steering gear assembly -

removal, overhaul and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•21

22.3 Intermediate shaft universal joint

clamp bolt (arrowed) viewed from

underneath

remove the clamp bolt securing the joint to

the pinion, and free the intermediate shaft
from the steering gear (see illustration).
4 Where necessary, undo the two retaining
screws, then unclip the heat shield and
remove it from the top of the steering gear
assembly.

Manual steering gear

5 Slacken the steering gear mounting bolts,
and recover the nuts. Withdraw the mounting
bolts, and recover the spacers from the
subframe apertures (see illustrations).
6 The steering gear assembly can then be
manoeuvred out from underneath the right-
hand wheel arch. Note that on left-hand-drive
1580 cc and larger-engined models with
manual transmission, it may be necessary to
disconnect one or more of the gearchange
linkage link rods from their balljoints on the
transmission unit, to gain the necessary
clearance required to withdraw the steering
gear.

Power-assisted steering gear

7 Using brake hose clamps, clamp both the
supply and return hoses near the power
steering fluid reservoir. This will minimise fluid
loss during subsequent operations.
8 Mark the unions to ensure they are
correctly positioned on reassembly, then
unscrew the feed and return pipe union nuts

from the steering gear assembly; be prepared
for fluid spillage, and position a suitable
container beneath the pipes whilst

unscrewing the union nuts. Disconnect both
pipes, and plug the pipe ends and steering
gear orifices, to prevent fluid leakage and to
keep dirt out of the hydraulic system.
9 Free the power steering pipes from any
retaining clips, and position them clear of the
steering gear so that they will not hinder the
removal procedure.
10 Remove the steering gear as described
above in paragraphs 5 and 6.

Overhaul

11 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage, and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
its travel, with no signs of roughness or

22.5a Slacken and remove the two

steering gear retaining bolts (viewed

underneath the front of the vehicle)...

excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. It is possible to overhaul the
steering gear assembly housing components,
but this task should be entrusted to a Citroen
dealer. The only components which can be
renewed easily by the home mechanic are the
steering gear gaiters, the track rod balljoints
and the track rods. Track rod, track rod

balljoint and steering gear gaiter renewal
procedures are covered in Sections 27, 26
and 23 respectively.
12 On models with power steering, inspect
all the steering gear fluid unions for signs of
leakage, and check that all union nuts are
securely tightened. Also examine the steering
gear hydraulic ram for signs of fluid leakage or
damage, and if necessary renew it.

Refitting

13 Note that all Nyloc nuts disturbed on
removal must be renewed as a matter of
course. These nuts have threads which are
pre-coated with locking compound (this is
only effective once), and include the track rod
balljoint nuts, steering gear mounting bolt
nuts, and the intermediate shaft clamp bolt
nut. The intermediate shaft clamp bolt nut is
retained by a metal cage; release the cage
retaining tangs, then remove the old nut from
inside the cage and install the new one. Refit
the cage to the shaft, and secure it in position
with the retaining tangs (illustration 20.12).
14 Manoeuvre the steering gear assembly
into position from the right-hand side of the
vehicle.
15 Position the spacers in the subframe
apertures, then insert the mounting bolts. Fit
the new nuts onto the steering gear, then
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque. Where necessary, clip the gearchange
linkage link rods onto their balljoints.

16 Clip the heat shield (where fitted) onto the
top of the steering gear, and securely tighten
its two retaining screws.
17 Aligning the marks made prior to removal,
engage the intermediate shaft universal joint
with the steering gear pinion splines. Refit the
clamp bolt with a new nut, and tighten it to the
specified torque.

18 Engage the track rod balljoints in the swivel

22.5b . . . recover the nuts from the rear of

the steering gear, and the spacers from

the subframe apertures (arrowed)

hubs, then fit a new retaining nut to each one.

Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

19 On models with power steering, wipe
clean the feed and return pipe unions, then
refit them to their respective positions on the

steering gear, and tighten the union nuts to
their specified torque settings. Ensure the

pipes are correctly routed, and are securely
held by all the necessary retaining clips.
20 On all models, refit the roadwheels, then
lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten

the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
21 Where necessary, remove the hose
clamps from the power steering hoses, then
top-up the fluid reservoir and bleed the

hydraulic system as described in Section 24.
22 On completion check and, if necessary,
adjust the front wheel alignment as described

in Section 28.

Manual steering gear

1 Remove the track rod balljoint as described
in Section 26.

2 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter
on the track rod, then release the retaining
clips and slide the gaiter off the steering gear

housing and track rod end.
3 Thoroughly clean the track rod and the
steering gear housing, using fine abrasive
paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or
sharp edges, which might damage the new
gaiter's sealing lips on installation. Scrape off
all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it
to the track rod inner balljoint. (This assumes
that grease has not been lost or contaminated
as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use
fresh grease if in doubt.)
4 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track

rod end, and locate it on the steering gear
housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter
with the mark made on the track rod prior to
removal, then secure it in position with new
retaining clips.
5 Refit the track rod balljoint as described in
Section 26.

23 Steering gear rubber

gaiters - renewal

10•22 Suspension and steering

25.3 Undo the retaining nut (arrowed), and

free the feed pipe from the rear of the

power steering pump. Fluid supply hose

retaining clip also arrowed

Power-assisted steering gear

6 On power-assisted steering gear
assemblies, it is only possible to renew the
gaiter nearest the drive pinion, ie the right-
hand gaiter on right-hand-drive models, and

the left-hand gaiter on left-hand-drive models.
This can be renewed as described above in
paragraphs 1 to 5.
7 The task of renewing the opposite gaiter
should be entrusted to a Citroen dealer. This
is necessary since it is not possible to pass

the gaiter over the steering rack stud to which
the hydraulic ram is fixed. Therefore, the
steering gear must be dismantled and the
rack removed from the housing to allow the

gaiter to be renewed.

8 The only task on this end of the assembly
which can be carried out by the home
mechanic is the renewal of the track rod inner
balljoint dust cover. The dust cover can be
renewed once the track rod balljoint has been
removed as described in Section 26. On

refitting, ensure the dust cover is correctly
located on the track rod and steering rack,

then refit the balljoint.

1 This procedure will only be necessary when

any part of the hydraulic system has been
disconnected.

2 Referring to Chapter 1, remove the fluid
reservoir filler cap, and top-up with the
specified fluid to the maximum level mark.
3 With the engine stopped, slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out the trapped air, then top-up the

level in the fluid reservoir. Repeat this
procedure until the fluid level in the reservoir
does not drop any further.

4 Start the engine, then slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out any remaining air in the system.
Repeat this procedure until bubbles cease to

appear in the fluid reservoir.

5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormal
noise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicates
that there is still air in the system. Check this

24 Power steering system -

bleeding

25.5a The two front power steering pump

retaining bolts can be accessed through

holes in the drive pulley

by turning the wheels to the straight-ahead
position and switching off the engine. If the

fluid level in the reservoir rises, then air is
present in the system, and further bleeding is
necessary.

6 Once all traces of air have been removed
from the power steering hydraulic system,
turn the engine off and allow the system to
cool. Once cool, check that fluid level is up to

the maximum mark on the power steering
fluid reservoir, topping-up if necessary.

25 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Release the drivebelt tension as described
in Chapter 1, and unhook the drivebelt from

the pump pulley. The power steering pump is
either mounted directly above or directly

below the alternator, depending on the engine

type and the specification level of the vehicle.
2 Using brake hose clamps, clamp both the
supply and return hoses near the power
steering fluid reservoir. This will minimise fluid
loss during subsequent operations.

3 Undo the retaining nut, and free the power
steering hose retaining clip from the rear of
the pump, where necessary (see illustration).

4 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect
the fluid supply hose from the rear of the
pump. If the original Citroen clip is still fitted,

cut the clip and discard it; replace it with a
standard worm-drive hose clip on refitting.
Slacken the union nut, and disconnect the

feed pipe from the pump, along with its O-
ring. Be prepared for some fluid spillage as
the pipe and hose are disconnected, and plug

the hose/pipe end and pump unions, to
minimise fluid loss and prevent the entry of
dirt into the system.

5 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the power steering pump, and
remove the pump from the engine
compartment (see illustrations).

Refitting

6 Manoeuvre the pump into position, then
refit its mounting bolts and tighten them
securely.

25.5b Power steering pump upper

mounting bolts (viewed from above)

7 Fit a new O-ring to the feed pipe union,

then reconnect the pipe to the pump and
securely tighten the union nut. Refit the supply
pipe to the pump, and securely tighten its
retaining clip. Remove the brake hose clamps
used to minimise fluid loss.

8 Refit the fluid hose retaining clip to the rear
of the pump, and securely tighten its retaining
nut.

9 Refit the drivebelt to the pump pulley, and
tension it as described in Chapter 1.
10 On completion, bleed the hydraulic
system as described in Section 24.

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.

2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a
straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark
its relationship to the track rod.
3 Hold the track rod, and unscrew the
balljoint locknut by a quarter of a turn. Do not

move the locknut from this position, as it will
serve as a handy reference mark on refitting.

4 Slacken and remove the nut securing the
track rod balljoint to the swivel hub, and
release the balljoint tapered shank using a
universal balljoint separator (see illustration).

26.4 Using a universal balljoint separator

to free the balljoint shank from the swivel

hub

26 Track rod balljoint -

removal and refitting

Suspension and steering 10•23

Discard the nut - a new one must be used
when refitting.
5 Counting the exact number of turns

necessary to do so, unscrew the balljoint from
the track rod end.
6 Count the number of exposed threads
between the end of the balljoint and the
locknut, and record this figure. If a new
balljoint is to be fitted, unscrew the locknut

from the old balljoint.
7 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.
Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppy
or too stiff, if excessively worn, or if damaged
in any way; carefully check the stud taper and
threads. If the balljoint gaiter is damaged, the
complete balljoint assembly must be
renewed; it is not possible to obtain the gaiter

separately.

Refitting

8 If a new balljoint is to be fitted, screw the
locknut onto its threads, and position it so
that the same number of exposed threads are
visible, as was noted prior to removal.
9 Screw the balljoint into the track rod by the
number of turns noted on removal. This
should bring the balljoint locknut to within a
quarter of a turn from the locknut, with the
alignment marks that were made on removal
(if applicable) lined up.
10 Refit the balljoint shank to the swivel hub,

then fit a new retaining nut and tighten it to
the specified torque.
11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
12 Check and, if necessary, adjust the front
wheel toe setting as described in Section 28,

then securely tighten the balljoint locknut.

Removal

1 Remove the track rod balljoint as described
in Section 26.

2 Either release the retaining clips and slide
the steering gear gaiter off the end of the track
rod, or release the track rod balljoint dust
cover from rack, and slide it off the track rod
(as applicable). Refer to Section 23 for further
information.

3 Unscrew the track rod inner balljoint from the
steering rack end, preventing the steering rack
from turning by holding the balljoint lock
washer with a pair of grips. Take great care not
to mark the surfaces of the rack and balljoint.
4 Remove the track rod assembly, and
discard the lock washer - a new one must be
used on refitting.
5 Examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots, and check
that the track rod itself is straight and free
from damage. If necessary, renew the track
rod; it is also recommended that the steering
gear gaiter/dust cover is renewed.

Refitting

6 Locate the new lock washer assembly on

the end of the steering rack, and apply a few
drops of locking fluid to the track rod inner

balljoint threads.
7 Screw the balljoint into the steering rack,
and tighten it to the specified torque whilst
retaining the lock washer with a pair of grips.

Again, take great care not to damage or mark
the track rod balljoint or steering rack.
8 Where a gaiter was removed, carefully slide

on the new gaiter, and locate it on the steering
gear housing. Turn the steering fully from
lock-to-lock, to check that the gaiter is
correctly positioned on the track rod, then
secure it in position with new retaining clips.
9 Where a dust cover was removed, carefully
slide on the new cover, and locate it in its
grooves on the steering rack collar and track
rod.
10 Refit the track rod balljoint as described in
Section 26.

Definitions

1 A car's steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are-also
expressed as a measurement); the steering
axis is defined as an imaginary line drawn

through the axis of the suspension strut,
extended where necessary to contact the
ground (see illustration).
2 Camber is the angle between each
roadwheel and a vertical line drawn through
its centre and tyre contact patch, when
viewed from the front or rear of the car.
Positive camber is when the roadwheels are
tilted outwards from the vertical at the top;
negative camber is when they are tilted
inwards.
3 Camber is not adjustable, and is given for
reference only; while it can be checked using
a camber checking gauge, if the figure
obtained is significantly different from that
specified, the vehicle must be taken for
careful checking by a professional, as the fault
can only be caused by wear or damage to the
body or suspension components.
4 Castor is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line drawn through each
roadwheel's centre and tyre contact patch,
when viewed from the side of the car. Positive
castor is when the steering axis is tilted so
that it contacts the ground ahead of the
vertical; negative castor is when it contacts
the ground behind the vertical.
5 Castor is not adjustable, and is given for
reference only; while it can be checked using
a castor checking gauge, if the figure obtained
is significantly different from that specified,
the vehicle must be taken for careful checking
by a professional, as the fault can only be

caused by wear or damage to the body or
suspension components.
6 Steering axis inclination/SAI - also known
as kingpin inclination/KPI - is the angle
between the steering axis and a vertical line
drawn through each roadwheel's centre and

tyre contact patch, when viewed from the
front or rear of the car.
7 SAI/KPI is not adjustable, and is given for

reference only.
8 Toe is the difference, viewed from above,
between lines drawn through the roadwheel
centres and the car's centre-line. "Toe-in" is
when the roadwheels point inwards, towards
each other at the front, while "toe-out" is

when they splay outwards from each other at
the front.
9 The front wheel toe setting is adjusted by

Castor

Camber

Steering axis

inclination

28.1 Wheel alignment and steering angle

measurements

FRONT

Toe-out

28 Wheel alignment and steering

angles - general information

27 Track rod -

removal and refitting

10•24 Suspension and steering

screwing the balljoints in or out of their track
rods, to alter the effective length of the track
rod assemblies.
10 Rear wheel toe setting is not adjustable,
and is given for reference only. While it can be
checked, if the figure obtained is significantly
different from that specified, the vehicle must
be taken for careful checking by a
professional, as the fault can only be caused

by wear or damage to the body or suspension
components.

Checking - general

11 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check the wheel alignment, and

the skill required to use it properly, the
checking and adjustment of these settings is
best left to a Citroen dealer or similar expert.

Note that most tyre-fitting shops now possess

sophisticated checking equipment.
12 For accurate checking, the vehicle must
be at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a

full tank of fuel, and the ride height must be
correct (see Section 18).
13 Before starting work, check first that the
tyre sizes and types are as specified, then
check the tyre pressures and tread wear, the
roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub
bearings, the steering wheel free play, and the

condition of the front suspension components
(Chapter 1). Correct any faults found.
14 Park the vehicle on level ground, check

that the front roadwheels are in the straight-
ahead position, then rock the rear and front
ends to settle the suspension. Release the
handbrake, and roll the vehicle backwards 1
metre, then forwards again, to relieve any
stresses in the steering and suspension
components.

Toe setting - checking and

adjusting

Front wheel toe setting

15 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and

rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
16 Prepare the vehicle as described in
paragraphs 12 to 14 above.
17 Measure the distance between the front

edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the rear measurement from
the front measurement, and check that the
result is within the specified range.
18 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front, of the

vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and
record the number of exposed threads on the
right-hand track rod end. Now turn the
steering onto full-right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand side. If

there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
should be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for

this during adjustment. Note: It is most
important that after adjustment, the same
number of threads are visible on each track
rod end.

19 First clean the track rod threads; if they
are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before

starting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiter
outboard clips (where necessary), and peel
back the gaiters; apply a smear of grease to

the inside of the gaiters, so that both are free,
and will not be twisted or strained as their
respective track rods are rotated.
20 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its balljoint then, holding each track rod
in turn, unscrew its locknut fully.

21 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 18. Screw
them into or out of the balljoints, rotating the
track rod using an open-ended spanner fitted

to the flats provided on the track rod.
Shortening the track rods (screwing them into

28.21 Adjusting the front wheel alignment

their balljoints) will reduce toe-in/increase toe-
out (see illustration).
22 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the balljoint
locknuts. Check that the balljoints are seated
correctly in their sockets, and count the
exposed threads to check the length of both

track rods. If they are not the same, then the
adjustment has not been made equally, and
problems will be encountered with tyre
scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel
spokes will no longer be horizontal when the
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

23 If the track rod lengths are the same,
lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check
the toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When
the setting is correct, securely tighten the

track rod balljoint locknuts. Ensure that the

rubber gaiters are seated correctly, and are
not twisted or strained, and secure them in
position with new retaining clips (where
necessary).

Rear wheel toe setting

24 The procedure for checking the rear toe
setting is same as described for the front in
paragraph 17. The setting is not adjustable -
see paragraph 10.