Norwegian
Cruising Guide
From the Swedish Sound to the
2008
Russian Border and Svalbard
2008 Edition By
Phyllis Nickel & John Harries
Norwegian Correspondents
Hans Jakob Valderhaug and Eli Husum
Based on earlier editions by
John Armitage & Mark Brackenbury
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Norwegian Cruising Guide
2008 Edition
By Phyllis Nickel & John Harries
Published by Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd.
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The Norwegian Cruising Guide 3
Norwegian Cruising Guide
The original and most complete English-language guide for mariners to
the coasts of Norway, Svalbard (Spitsbergen), Bjłrnłya (Bear Island) and the SW
coast of Sweden.
Based on earlier editions by Mark Brackenbury and John Armitage.
" 540 pages of cruising information gathered over 30 years.
" 810 ports and anchorages described with information on approaches, where
to anchor/tie up, marine services and shore-based activities and services.
" Half the price and over twice the content of the average cruising guide.
"  General Cruising Information volume includes scores of tips on cruising
northern destinations gathered by the authors during 17 years and 100,000
miles of North Atlantic cruising.
" Printable  Harbours and Anchorages volume.
" Insider s perspective from Norwegian correspondents Hans Jakob and
Eli gathered in over 30 years of cruising Norway s coast from Sweden to
Svalbard.
" Planning maps.
" Scores of colour photographs.
 Well, I am now back from my cruise, and a wonderful six weeks it turned out to be. Mainly
due to your guide...it was excellent. I do not know how we would have managed without it.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 4
Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
See detail, next page
See detail, next page
See detail, next page
Map based on C-MAP cartography,
Not for navigation.
Tjeldłya Liland
68° 30 N
Ofotfjorden
LÅ‚dingen
Ballangen
Skarstad
Vallebukta
Sildpollen
68°N
7
Refsvik
Hellemobotn
Nordland
8
Vćrły
RÅ‚st
Kjerringły
VedÅ‚ya 67° 30 N
Coastal Danger Areas
Coastal Danger Areas
Skomvćr Kjelbotn
#7 Winds: NW-NE, Current/Tide:
Sandvika
VågÅ‚ysundet N-NE current generally, Depth: In
general, <200m.
Bodł
#8 Winds: SW-W, Current/Tide:
Ebb, Depth: 300-450m.
12° E 14° E 16° E
Introduction
This area includes Lofoten the chain of islands separated from the mainland by the
Vestfjord long considered the destination for mariners cruising north Norway due to its
stunning mountain scenery and snug anchorages. However, equally worth visiting are the
spectacular remote anchorages, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, of the inshore islands
and the narrow fjord systems on the mainland side of the Vestfjord. This creates a dilemma for
the sailor with limited cruising time, though it is worth noting that the distances are relatively
short in this area. For example, the whole length of Lofoten is only about 120 miles and the
width of the Vestfjord ranges from 10 to 40 miles.
If you are not going any further north than Lofoten, you may wish to consider following the
order of harbours and anchorages in this chapter starting in Bodł and traveling in a counter-
clockwise direction around the
Vestfjord, making detours in to the
Tysfjord and the Ofotfjord, and
up the Raftsund a channel that
leads out of the Vestfjord to the
north to visit the famous Trollfjord.
Continuing on to the north through
the Raftsund, you could turn west
and stop in Laukvik to see the
midnight sun before re-entering the
Vestfjord through any number of
channels further to the south. Or you This spectacular mountain scene appears when approaching the
narrow but deep Svartsund, westbound for the Trollford, taken from
could retrace your path through the
the Raftsund.
Raftsund, and then sail south down
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Ramsundet
Tjelsundet
Borgvćr
Narvik
Hinnłya
Skjomenfjorden
Leknes and Leknessjłen
oten Islands
Korsnes
Raftsundet
Lof
Botnłya (N)
SÅ‚rskjomen or Hallarvika
Beitsfjorden (SE)
T
Hamsundpollen
annÅ‚yvågen
Kirkefjorden or Kjerkfjorden
AustvågÅ‚ya
T
BjÅ‚rnvågen
ranłya
Straumshamn
Svolvćr
T
ysfjorden
estvågÅ‚ya
V
Stefjordbotn
Dalsvćr
Henningsvćr
Sommarselvågen
Stamsund
Presteidvika
Skutvika
Ćsłya
Kjłpsvik
Skarsvåg
Sund
Ballstad
Straumłya
Flakstadłya
Hamarłya
Nusfjord
Hakvåg
Kjerrvika
Kunna
Oksłysundet
Ørnes
TÅ‚mmervika
Hamnłya or Havnłya
RÅ‚tnesvågen
Reine
Ankersvågen
Moskenes
Bogen
TÅ‚rrisneset
SÅ‚rvågen
Moskenesłya
Å
Rłssłya
Buvågen
estfjorden
V
rollłya/Brennłya
T
Nordskot
Helnessund
ettłysundet
Indre V
Hjellłya
okkłya
Osholmen
Helligvćr or V
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 5
the chain of islands, crisscrossing to the Atlantic side if time allows and you are so inclined,
until Skomvćr where you can make passage directly to one of the offshore islands around the
Arctic Circle, such as Myken or Trćna, or to the Hollandsfjord.
©2006 John Harries
Map based on C-MAP cartography,
Hinnłya
Not for navigation.
Tje
An option for those of you passing through Lofoten on your way further north is to make
landfall at Skomvćr and then work your way north along the chain of islands, exiting the
Vestfjord through the Raftsund with a stop at the Trollfjord. On your way back south, you can
reenter the Vestfjord through the Tjelsund (further east than the Raftsund) and then explore
the fjords and islands on the mainland side of the Vestfjord from there.
TÅ‚mmervik
Skarsvåg
Vestfjorden, partitioned from the Atlantic by Lofoten, is the world s richest cod ground, and
Oksłysundet
this determines a great deal of the character of the area. Lofotfisket (the Lofoten fishery), with
Rłssłya
hundreds of moderate sized fishing boats following the cod as they leave the Barents Sea to
Rotnesvågen
spawn in the Vestfjord from January to April, is a major economic as well as cultural and
Bogen
social force. There is also a huge herring fishery during the fall. The outer villages have a rich
history and unique character shaped by this means of existence, which was, until recently, a
very harsh one. However, during the summer months, the fishing is at a low level, leaving
Nordskot
plenty of berthing room for cruising
yachts.
Note that the shoal SW of Store
Kallsłya, a mile E of Flłtningsviken
on the route between Svolvćr and
the Trollfjord, has been found to
have only 1 m depth just SE of
Indre Vettłysundet
Kallsłboen.
The counties covered by this chapter A calm evening scene at RÅ‚st, a working harbour that typifies this
area where fishing is still an important part of life.
are: Salten.
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Hjellłya
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No
Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Skipłyosen
Ingelsfjorden
V
estpollen
SlåtÅ‚ya/BukkÅ‚ya
T
engelfjorden
Laukvik or Laukvika
Grundfjorden
slands
T
Tjelsundet
rollfjorden
Hegstadosen
Austnesfjorden
Raftsundet
Kvankjosen
Digermulen
Of
Flłtningsviken
fersłya
Svellingen
Risvćr or Kjeila
Ulvågen
AustvågÅ‚ya
Steinsł
Store Molla
Gullvika
Svolvćr
Brettesnes
T
Kabelvåg
ysfjorden
Ørsvåg
Nyvågar or Storvågen
Skrova
estvågÅ‚ya
V
Henningsvćr
estfjorden
V
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 6
Charts and Sailing Directions
Overview at 1:350,000: Chart 311.
A nice luxury: Charts 319 and 320 at 1:200,000 and Charts 227 and 229 at 1:100,000.
The recommended detailed coverage at 1:50,000: Charts 65 to 77.
Also recommended at 1:80,000: Chart 230.
Harbour charts: Chart 461 for Narvik, Chart 462 for Svolvćr and Chart 476 for Bodł.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5.
Tides and Tidal Streams
The greatest spring tides in this area are just over 3 m. HW is 1.5 hours after Bergen.
Tidal streams in the Nappstraum, Gimsłystraum and Raftsund peak at 4 knots, flowing
north between 2.5 h before and 3.5 h after HW. In the narrows of the Raftsund, the north-
flowing stream can reach 7 knots with a strong wind. As with tide-races more common in
UK waters, the Moskenstraum (the inspiration for Jules Verne s Mćlstrom) can be dangerous
with strong wind against tide, and it is a good idea to avoid the lumpiness in the area between
Rłst and Vćrły by staying a bit to the southeast. The rock-strewn north approaches of the
Gimsłystraum are notoriously dangerous with a strong north wind against the tide.
Harbours and Anchorages
The harbours below are listed from Bodł (covered in the last chapter) N and then counter
clockwise to the S tip of Lofoten.
To assist in planning, here is a list of those harbours we consider to be the most outstanding.
Since we like to hike, many of our choices are based on good walking/hiking in the
vicinity: Hamsund, Ørnes, Hellemobotn, Skjomenfjorden, Digermulen, Gullvika, Skrova,
Henningsvćr, Straumłya, Reine and Rłst.
Bodł to Hamarłya
Helligvćr or Vokkłya (SE Vokkłya) (JD, 2005)
Chart 65; 67°25.6 N, 13°59 E
This is a small isolated village in one of Bodł s outlying skerries. Note several overhead
cables, some charted and some added since chart publication.
Den Norske Los refers to this harbour as Vokkłya.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are quays and pontoons. The charted anchorage on the 10 m sounding is forbidden due
to a water pipe between the islands. JD managed to anchor between the islands at the 9 m
sounding just E of the anchor symbol on the chart but found the holding poor. They would
only recommend this as a fair weather anchorage.
There is also a quay and pontoons at NW Słrvćrłya, with fuel, P.O. and shop.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 7
Osholmen (SW Landegode) (HLRB, 2006)
Chart 65; 67°24 N, 14°15.6 E
The three high peaks of Landegode serve as a landmark which can be seen from anywhere in
the Vestfjord.
Approaches:
Entry is from the W or N through small islets, and it is worth exploring a bit before deciding
where to drop the hook since there are a number of possible anchoring spots.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This wild and beautiful anchorage has several beaches and many eagles John Armitage once
counted 12 in an hour.
Sandvika (SE Landegode) (VP, 2007/JD, 2007)
Chart 65; 67°23.1 N, 14°18.5 E
There are nice beaches and a park area ashore.
Anchorages, Moorings:
VP reports difficulty getting the anchor to set in 16 m depth. JD reported good holding in
13 m depth in a mix of sand and mud. There is good swinging room and good all around
protection from Landegode and a number of small islands and reefs.
Things To Do:
It is a lovely walk across to the sand beaches on the W side of the island.
Kjelbotn (NE Landegode) (1996)
Chart 65; 67°25.4 N, 14°23.5 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This anchorage is often used but is reported to be unsafe at times due to gusts and uncertain
holding; there are other options around the island.
VågÅ‚ysundet (JD, 2007)
Chart 65; 67°22.15 N, 14°33.2 E
Note that there is a charted overhead cable with 15 m clearance at the S end of the
VågÅ‚ysund.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 14 m depth in sand with good holding. This anchorage is sheltered from all wind
directions except for a narrow sector from the NNE.
Kjerringły (PT, 2005/MMH, 2006/DH, 2007)
Chart 66; 67°31.3 N, 14°45.6 E
A stone breakwater has been added at the N entrance to the harbour, improving protection in
N winds, the harbour has been dredged to a minimum depth of 3 m, and there apparently are
more harbour improvements in the works.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a sketch map and an aerial photograph of the harbour.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 8
Anchorages, Moorings:
The visitors pontoon at the N end of the harbour is the first one you see as you come around
the mole. Berth on the outside fingers as the inside berths are private.
The anchorage just to the S of Kjerringły has been obstructed with two submerged water
pipes, which are not shown on older charts.
For The Boat:
Water and electricity are planned for the berths on the outside of the pontoon (the inside
private berths already have these facilities). Fuel is available.
For The Crew:
There is a supermarket just behind the harbour on the way to the museum. A toilet and shower
facility is planned for the building on the old jetty next to the fuel pump. In the meantime it
may be possible to get a shower at the hotel for 50kr.
Things To Do:
This is a notable 19th century trading port, the grounds serving as a tourist museum, with a
café. There is a new hotel with a bar overlooking the harbour. Talk to the hotel manager about
activities in the area. Apparently there is a sea eagle s nest on one of the nearby islands that he
can point out.
Hjellłya (Karlsłvćr) (1996)
Chart 66; 67°32.75 N, 14°39.1 E
All Karlsłvćr and Slovćr, just to the N, is a Bird and Nature Reserve, with a Bird Protection
Area extended out to 2 km; between April 15 and July 15 you may approach the shore but not
land.
Anchorages, Moorings:
The anchorage lies off Kjerringły in a small, pretty, secluded channel with a sandy bottom.
You will need to use two anchors.
Indre Vettłysundet (1996)
Chart 66; 67°40.6 N, 14°43.7 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is an especially scenic wild anchorage, well sheltered, with wooded hills and eagles.
There is good swinging room in 4 to 5 m depth with a sand bottom off the S-most beach.
Helnessund (VP, 2007)
Chart 66; 67°43.9 N, 14°46.2 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has sketch maps and an aerial photograph of the sound.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a charted anchorage in the sound but the swinging area is limited, there is a
submerged cable and the sound is used by ferries. The visitors pontoons are only suitable for
small boats but it may be possible to tie up to a boat on one of the quays.
For The Boat:
There is a fuel station in the village near the quay and an active boat yard with slip that might
be of assistance in an emergency.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 9
For The Crew:
There is a good shop in the village.
Things To Do:
You can hike up to Skarbua, a community hut, at 600 to 700 m in altitude. Walk about 6 km
along the road that runs E through Leines and then, about 1 km past Leines, turn right up a
valley road and look for the signed path to Skarbua. The path climbs up through thinning low
trees to a grassy ridge. Over the ridge is the very well-equipped community hut. The tourist
office in Bodł carries maps for this part of Steigen Kommune.
If you are interested in swimming, there are some nice beaches in Helnessund.
Nordskot (Grłtłya) (2003/HLRB, 2006/
MMH, 2006/VP, 2007)
Chart 67 (inset); 67°50.2 N, 14°47.3 E
In the 2nd Edition of the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this
anchorage was referred to as Grłtłya.
The island of Grłtłya nestles in an archipelago below
dramatic peaks, on a complex but well-marked channel,
which is much easier to navigate than it looks on the
chart. Note that the cables over the NW entrance are
now posted as having 23 m clearance, not 25 m as on
the chart (2003).
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the
harbour.
Approaches:
Note that the varde at 67°51.3 N, 14°47.3 E has
crumbled, making the approach from the N more
difficult (2006). Looking northeast across the harbour at
Nordskot from the hill on Grłtłya.
Anchorages, Moorings:
A half mile across the sound to the SE from Naustholmen, the small bay off the village
Nordskot provides an excellent scenic anchorage, sheltered except from the N, in 9.1 m
charted depth, with good holding in firm sand.
The Shell fuel quay provides a free guest mooring; it s the one to the E festooned with old
fenders. There are 4 blue mooring buoys, with yellow pick ups, marked Guest Buoy; further
details not known. There is also a pontoon with good depths alongside just off the shop.
After much puzzling and increasingly bizarre suggestions on our part, we were told that the
breakwater between the moored boats and the beach at the Nordskot anchorage is for keeping
ice off the boats in the spring ice breakup.
There are several pleasant tiny sandy channels for anchorage S of Grłtłya, notably near
AndersÅ‚ya at 67°49 N, 14°44 E.
For The Crew:
There is a small well-stocked grocery store by the ferry pier.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 10
Things To Do:
At the SE side of Naustholmen lies a notable historic trading centre with a museum, which
was closed in 2007. There is a small floating dock for access to the museum.
There are fine views from the hilltop path and nature walks on Naustholmen. This is a good
place to observe the midnight sun from your boat as there are no obstructing hills.
Trollłya/Brennłya (MMH,
2006)
Chart 68; 67°56.8 N, 14°53 E
Approaches:
You can approach from the N or the
S as charted.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 3 to 5 m depth in sand. As
swinging room is limited, you will
either need to use 2 anchors or run
lines to the shore.
Rłssłya (SW Engelłya) Looking east over the anchorage at Trollłya/Brennłya.
(2007)
Charts 67 and 68; 67°55.1 N, 14°56 E
This is a small harbour in the skerries.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is guest berthing available.
In fair weather it is pleasant to anchor between Flatłya and lille Flatłya, 3.7 miles to the W,
and explore the abandoned lighthouse facility.
There are numerous anchoring possibilities in the sandy-bottomed waters among the nearby
skerries.
Things To Do:
There are a number of historical sites to visit in the area: Steigen Kirke (a church from the
Middle Ages) and the Steigen Museum are located on the SW side of Engelłya, and the
Lłvły Old Commercial Center has guided tours including a nature walk, located on Lłvły,
just to the W of Rłssłya. For more information on sites in the area, see www.steigen.
kommune.no and follow the link to English.
TÅ‚rrisneset (HLRB, 2006)
Chart 68; 67°54.05 N, 15°06.2 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good swing room and holding in 12 m depth in this large bay.
Bogen (Flagsundet) (HJV, 2006)
Chart 68; 67°54 N, 15°11.6 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 11
Approaches:
If approaching from the W, turn S just E of the bridge (Den Norske Los reports a vertical
clearance of 25 m, though a local ferry captain reported it as 23 m) between the mainland
and Engelłya. Pass E of the beacon (G Fl lt) and W of the red buoy. There is 5 m depth in the
approaches. (Note that the beacon and buoy are not primarily intended as markers to Bogen
harbour, hence the colour scheme appears to be the wrong way around for the approach.) If
approaching from the E, stay in deep water N along Oterodden.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are two pontoons. Smaller visiting boats may moor at the end of the outer pontoon
where there is 5 m depth, or enquire about vacant finger berths. There is limited space for
manoeuvering inside the first pontoon. Larger yachts may moor alongside the old ferry
jetty, where it is deep on both sides but with limited room for manoeuvring on the inside.
The charge is 50kr/night. There is an honesty box on the wall of the Bogenes Båtforening
clubhouse.
The large dock with tyres is used by the express boat.
For The Boat:
There is water on the pontoon and electricity is available upon request.
For The Crew:
Groceries are available up the road.
Things To Do:
For an idea of how SW winter gales funnel fierce gusts down over the village, have a look at
the way the old wooden church is constructed: The roof on the SW wall is firmly attached to
the ground with solid rod tie bars!
They occasionally have live music in the pub in the old butchery on the docks, open weekends
only.
Ankersvågen (SE EngelÅ‚ya) (VP, 2007)
Chart 68; 67°55 N, 15°14.5 E
This peaceful anchorage is located in pastoral surroundings with bell-bedecked sheep tinkling
their way over the grassy slopes.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor well into the cove in 14 m depth with good swinging room and good shelter in this
very spacious anchorage.
RÅ‚tnesvågen (NE EngelÅ‚ya) (2003)
Chart 68; 67°56 N, 15°16 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good holding in this anchorage open to the NE but otherwise sheltered.
Hakvåg (NE EngelÅ‚ya) (HJV, 2006)
Chart 68; 67°56.65 N, 15°14.6 E
While Hakvåg may not have the beauty of the anchorages on LundÅ‚ya and HamarÅ‚ya, it is
accessible in all weather conditions.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 12
Approaches:
From Skagstadsundet, pass W of the perch on Oddskjćret and E of the next perch. Both
perches have pointers. When passing through the narrow final part of the approach, keep to
the S. You will find deeper water there than the charted 2 m.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 7 to 8 m depth N in the bay and E of the permanent moorings. The holding is good.
Skarsvåg (SW LundÅ‚ya) (1996)
Chart 68; 67°58.1 N, 15°12.5 E
Beware the 12 m high overhead cable at the head of the anchorage.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a quiet and very pleasant wild anchorage in 7 m depth, sand bottom, well sheltered.
Two anchors, or lines ashore, might be required with changing wind direction.
The cove charted as an anchorage S of Alsvikskjćr, 0.8 miles WNW, is an attractive wild
anchorage in 5 to10 m depth, sand bottom, well sheltered except from the SSW.
Oksłysundet (SE Lundłya) (2003)
Chart 68; 67°58 N, 15°18 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor at the E entrance to the Oksłysund. There is good holding in settled weather. Keep a
good watch for fish farm cables.
Hamarłya From offshore, looking southwest at
Tranłya Lighthouse and the mountains of
Note that although Hamarłya is called an island (łya),
Hamarłya.
it is actually a peninsula.
Skutvika (SW Hamarłya) (JD, 2007)
Chart 68; 68°01 N, 15°20.5 E
Skutvika is a major ferry port.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both an aerial photograph and a sketch map of the harbour.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 13
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a visitors pontoon inside the mole harbour, between the RoRo and the fast ferry
berths (2 mustard-coloured buildings).
It is also possible to anchor in good depth inside the moles, N of the inner green spar buoy.
For The Boat:
The Statoil bunkering point is on the pontoon by the conspicuous three-story warehouse
building.
Dalsvćr (JD, 2007)
Chart 68; 68°04.5 N, 15°19.5 E
This is a very scenic anchorage, nested between two high steep mountains. The surrounding
terrain would suggest that it is subject to heavy gusting in strong winds.
Approaches:
Approaching this anchorage would not be advisable in strong SW to W winds as the
approaches are very narrow.
There is a charted 3 m bar at the entrance to the anchorage. The deepest point on the bar is
halfway between the first of the two inner beacons and the small island to its W.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 9 m depth with good holding in mud and sand in the pool by the second of the two
inner beacons.
Straumshamn (NW Hamarłya) (1996/MMH, 2003)
Chart 68; 68°06.4 N, 15°22.6 E
Nestled in a small fjord at the foot of
Hamarłya s crags are three picture-
book anchorages, each unique. Note
that strong unexpected fall-winds
may be experienced here at times.
Approaches:
Passing through the narrow entrance,
keep to port to avoid the charted 2 m
rock which will probably be visible
in the clear water.
Anchorages, Moorings:
These delightful choices unfold:
" To starboard just inside the
narrow entrance lies a tiny Looking east over a sailboat laced into the entrance of the tiny
cove at Straumshamn, just to starboard on entry into the fjord. The
cove edged with a white
pool described under the Straumshamn entry as a third possible
sand beach, with not quite
anchorage, is in the centre right of the photograph, behind the small
sufficient depth to allow
hill, with the fresh water lake at the foot of the large mountain. Entry
sheltering as deeply into the
into the fjord is to the left of the picture.
cove as you might like, but
sufficient for most summer weather, using shore lines and an anchor.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 14
" A bit farther into the fjord there is a fine anchorage between a tiny rocky island and the
nearby shore, with mooring bolts on each and a sandy shoal area nearby for an anchor
if desired.
" Continuing further in at well over half-tide and sounding carefully, crossing the sandy
shoal brings you into a small deep pool ideal for an anchor on the shoal and lines
ashore to trees. A small cascade empties into this pool, and a short portage with the
dinghy brings you to a beautiful freshwater lake at the foot of the mountains.
Dalsvćr, the rather complex little bay just S, is sheltered by islands and offers several
attractive spots to anchor in sand, but it is rather overshadowed by Straumshamn.
Things To Do:
There is a nice hike on a small path that starts at the beach on the other side of the lake and
passes S of Hamarłyskaftet to Sandheia (alt 375 m) with a beautiful view of the lake and
Lofoten.
BjÅ‚rnvågen (NW HamarÅ‚ya) (MMH, 2007)
Chart 68; 68°08 N, 15°24.4 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 15 m depth with good holding in good shelter. Note that Den Norske Los reports
poor holding in this anchorage.
Hamsundpollen (N Hamarłya) (2003)
Chart 68; 68°07 N, 15°31 E
This is a pretty inland bay with an interesting entrance between islets.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Hamsundpollen is an excellent all-weather harbour with many places to anchor. The holding
is very good in hard clay. You can anchor in the 5 m deep pool near the end of the bay, row
ashore, and then it is only a short walk to the museum in Hamsund.
Things To Do:
Visit the home and museum of Nordland s notable novelist, Knut Hamsun (Nobel Prize,
1920).
Tranłya (GS, 2006/HLRB,
2006/HJV, 2007)
Chart 68; 68°11 N, 15°40.5 E
The harbour is situated just S of the
sector light.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial
photograph of the harbour. This photograph is taken at Tranłya, facing north on the visitors
pontoon, which runs parallel to the wooden dock shown in the
Anchorages, Moorings:
photo. Visiting boats can also moor alongside the wave breaker
A complex of connected pontoons
which is to the right of the photo. To the left of the photo is the berth
for the pilot vessel and a pontoon for small vessels, with little room
divides the harbour into N and S
for visiting boats.
sections with separate entrances:
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 15
" The S section is filled with small boat dockage and has little, if any, room for a
cruising yacht at the pontoons, although there are mooring bolts ashore and room to
anchor off them.
" The N section is more suitable and is entered by leaving the large concrete floating
dock close to port. You can moor on the outside of the concrete dock, to the inner (E to
W) pontoons, or to the wooden quays. The wooden dock shown in the photograph is
used by the coastal steamers (old Hurtigrute ships that are now used for short summer
cruises in this region) once a week.
For The Crew:
All amenities are available in the season in an old whaling ship onshore.
Things To Do:
There is a pleasant walk to the picturesque lighthouse two miles W, which is reached by a
long board walk. There are several art galleries to visit. There is a pub in the whaling ship.
Sommarselvågen (VP, 2007)
Chart 68; 68°10.05 N, 15°43.0 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor in 15 m depth in the centre of the bay in good shelter and holding. There is a pontoon
that welcomes visiting boats; however, the gate was locked when this contributor visited,
requiring some scrambling to get to land.
Things To Do:
There is pleasant walking in the area.
Presteidvika (N Litleły) (2003)
Chart 68; 68°6.5 N, 15°38.5 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor N of Litleły in 10 m depth where there is good holding and shelter except in E winds.
Things To Do:
There are nice walks N of the anchorage.
Hamarłya to Tysfjorden
TannÅ‚yvågen (E TannÅ‚y) (MMH, 2006)
Chart 68; 68°09.3 N, 15°45.5 E
The farmhouses surrounding the anchorage are now used only in the summer.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a very sheltered anchorage with good holding. As the swinging room is limited, lines
ashore are required.
Things To Do:
Behind the farm to the SW there is a trail through the woods that leads to a small old water
mill which has been nicely rebuilt.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 16
Tysfjorden
At the E end of the Vestfjord, the six fingers of the Tysfjord penetrate far into the rugged
mountains almost to Sweden. All of the branches would be considered scenic anywhere and
several are outstanding even in this area of superlatives. We spent two weeks here in early
October. The mountains towering directly out of the fjord with their lower slopes carpeted
with trees dressed in the riotous colours of fall and their peaks dusted with snow, all bathed in
the long golden light of autumn, was truly breathtaking hard on our supply of film too.
All of the islands and river outlets in the Tysfjord are part of the Bekkensholm National Park.
In late October, the outer Tysfjord and outer Ofotfjord (north of the Tysfjord) are visited by
hundreds of spekkhoggere (orca/killer whales), which follow the herring in from the Atlantic.
The harbours and anchorages below are listed starting from the S and working counter-
clockwise around the arms of the fjord.
Korsnes (NW Tysfjorden) (1996)
Charts 69 and 230; 68°15.1 N, 16°03.7 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
To the W at the entrance to the Tysfjord, Korsnes is a small very sheltered mole harbour with
several pontoons and quays. Use the S pontoon as there is an overhead cable at the N.
Things To Do:
One km S is a short trail leading to one of Norway s notable areas of rock carvings.
Botnłya (N) (NW Beitsfjorden) (2003/MMH, 2007)
Charts 68 and 230; 68°12 N, 16°05 E
This is a pleasant harbour with access to the remainder of the Tysfjord. In the 2nd Edition of
the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this anchorage was referred to as Storjorda.
Approaches:
There are leading marks in the approach to the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are pontoons and anchoring is possible with very good holding.
We do not recommend the charted anchorage at Storvika, 1 nm to the S, as it is too deep
further out and if you go into shallower depths, there is an uncharted submerged pipe at 5 m
depth and a number of old ropes running along the bottom.
There is a good anchorage at Beitsfjorden (SE), just to the SE.
For The Crew:
There are shops, phones and a P.O. within 2 km to the W.
Things To Do:
There is an interesting walk across a ridge to Tiltsvika.
Beitsfjorden (SE) (MMH, 2007)
Charts 68 and 230; 68°11.5 N, 16°06.5 E
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 17
Approaches:
Give the rocks and the small island
to port a good berth on entering the
anchorage.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good holding in 5 to 8 m
depth with good swing room. You
could run lines to trees on shore if
you wished.
Hellemobotn
(Hellemofjorden) (2003)
Chart 230 (inset); 67°49.1 N,
16°30.1 E
This is a small summer community
and the start of one of the most
spectacular hikes we ve ever been
on.
On the NE wall inward from
Kidbukta (67°50 N, 16°27
E), between Hellemobotn and
Nordbukta, there are extensive
unusual glacial melt-water scouring
patterns in the granite walls of the
fjord.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Beware, the underwater cables are
not where they are charted, at least Looking northwest out the Hellemofjord from a short way along the
walk to Sweden from Hellemobotn. The anchorage at Nordbukta is
on older charts, and in fact lie across
behind the cliff in the right background. The contrast between the
the only spot shallow enough for
fall colours of the trees and the snow on the higher elevations was
anchoring. It is possible to take a
stunning.
ferry from Kjłpsvik to Hellemobotn
in summer. We found that the best bet off-season was to anchor at Nordbukta 2.5 nm NW and
take the dinghy for the three-mile ride to Hellemobotn.
Things To Do:
The 8.5 km (each way) hike from Hellemobotn to the border with Sweden was the most
stunning of our two years in Norway, although fairly challenging. After completing this hike
you can wow your non-Norwegian friends by stating that you crossed Norway on foot. There
is also a spectacular water fall to visit. For more information visit the Hellemobotn web site at
http://home.c2i.net/ktjihkko/index2.htm.
TÅ‚mmervika (NE Hellemofjorden) (1996/JD, 2007)
Chart 230 (inset); 67°59.1 N, 16°16.6 E
The mountain scenery around Indre Musken, 67°53 N, 16°13 E, is superb but there is no
protected anchorage.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 18
Anchorages, Moorings:
TÅ‚mmervik is a pretty anchorage open to the NW. In 1996 JA anchored in 10 m depth with
good holding in sand. In 2007 JD anchored further out in 14 m depth but still with good
holding in sand.
Kjerrvika (Grunnfjorden) (1996/JD, 2007)
Chart 230 (inset); 68°00.4 N, 16°20.1 E
Grunnfjorden is pleasantly scenic. In the 2nd Edition of the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this
anchorage was referred to as Osen.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Kjerrvika is a pleasant anchorage with swinging room, somewhat open to the NW. In 1996 JA
anchored in 6 m with good holding in sand. In 2007 JD anchored in 4 m on rock with doubtful
holding in the centre of the cove between the entrance and the mooring field. JD reports a
drying rock on the midline of the cove, just inside the moorings.
Eidvik, just to the SW, is a very well sheltered anchorage, but requires anchoring in 25 m
depth. Anchoring at Grunnfjordbotn would be in 20 m of water.
Ørnes (SE Mannfjorden) (2003)
Chart 230 (inset); 67°58.5 N, 16°31 E
Ørnes is a small cove at the end of a stunningly scenic fjord. There are a few summer houses
scattered around the river mouth.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a protected, very pretty cove anchorage with a sand bottom, although deep. The
holding is good but very strong fall-winds can occur with E winds; all you need to do is look
around at some of the flattened trees for confirmation of this warning.
Things To Do:
This is a good base for the steep hike up the S shoulder of the handsome granite peak Multind
which rises 853 m overhead. There is a much less strenuous walk that starts behind the houses
and leads to a pretty little mountain lake.
Kjłpsvik (central Tysfjorden) (2003)
Chart 230; 68°05.6 N, 16°21.6 E
This is a pretty village on a handsome wooded slope. During approach the ambiance is marred
by the huge cement plant; however, once ashore the plant is invisible behind a hill.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both an aerial photograph and a sketch map of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
The harbour has several quays and large pontoons as well as finger pontoons; in a strong
S wind, one would want to be on the inside of the pontoons. SÅ‚rfjorden and Holmen offer
pleasant and moderately scenic (but rather deep) anchorages in the Indre Tysfjord to the E.
Stefjordbotn (SE Stefjorden) (1996/HJV 2005)
Chart 230; 68°11 N, 16°36.2 E
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 19
This exceptionally spectacular
anchorage is at the foot of the NW
face of the 1396 m high Stetind
(the Anvil of the Gods), a beautiful
chisel-shaped peak visible from
many miles away. The summit
appears to loom overhead at 70°,
although the actual rise is only 43°.
There are a dozen houses at the end
of the fjord.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor at the end of the fjord in Stetind (Anvil of the Gods), looms over the Stefjord.
sand in 10 to 15 m depth.
Things To Do:
Climbing Stetind is out of reach for the average cruiser; it is, however, a much desired climb
for experienced mountaineers. The summit frustrated experienced climbers for decades, the
first ascent being in 1910. William C. Slingsby, famous for his many pioneering climbs on the
W coast, claimed it to be  the ugliest mountain I ever saw. Needless to say he never made it
to the top!
Andy Hyslop and Jonathan Lagoe have written a mini-guide (in English) on the most popular
route, called Stetind South Pillar, which can be downloaded from www.rockfax.com/
publications/miniguides/item.php?id=49 for no charge.
In a much publicized competition on Norway s public radio (P1) in 2002, Stetind was voted
National Mountain of Norway.
Sildpollen (NE Stefjorden) (JD, 2007)
Chart 230; 68°14.1 N, 16°27.6 E
This is a superlatively beautiful wild anchorage surrounded on three sides by huge granite
walls, with forests and a stream. However, JD reports that with the cloud base lower than the
mountain tops it was rather like being anchored inside a grey bowl with the lid on!
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor at the head of the bay in 8 to10 m depth in sand and mud with good holding off the
small sandy beach to the W of the rock shown on the chart. The beach on the E is steep-to.
Den Norske Los warns of severe gusting in strong winds from any direction.
Ofotfjorden and Approaches
Vallebukta (NW Ćfjorden) (1996/MMH, 2006)
Chart 230; 68°19 N, 16°15.4 E
Ćfjorden cuts deeply SE into the mountains at the entrance to the Ofotfjord. In the 2nd Edition
of the Norwegian Cruising Guide, this anchorage was referred to as Ungsmalłya.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 20
Anchorages, Moorings:
Vallebukta, a lovely anchorage
with fine views, is located on the
starboard hand when entering the
mouth of the fjord. It is possible
to anchor either to the N or S of
the little island, depending on the
wind direction. There are 3 helpful
uncharted perches at the N entry to
the bay.
There is a pleasant scenic anchorage
in 15 m depth, 2 to 3 cables W of the
25 m high overhead cable between
StraumÅ‚ya and Hestneset, at 68°20 Looking northeast over the anchorage at Vallebukta, with the small
island of Ungsmalłya in the front centre of the photograph.
N, 16°14 E, at the entrance to the
Ćfjord.
The remainder of the Ćfjord is quite scenic, with a reasonable fair weather anchorage at the
end.
Things To Do:
The hike to the top of Valletinden (alt 833 m), the mountain SW of the Vallebukta anchorage,
is well worth the effort. The upward gradient is moderate. The views from the top are superb
and with good visibility you can see Vćrły, 89 nm away.
Skarstad (1996)
Chart 230; 68°21.8 N, 16°16.5 E
Skarstad is a small, pleasant, well-sheltered mole harbour.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has a sketch map of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a pontoon and quay. Caution: it is possible to catch your keel on the pontoon mooring
chains.
For The Crew:
There is a shop.
Ballangen (JD, 2005)
Chart 230; 68°20.7 N, 16°52.8 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchor at the 11.3 m charted depth with good holding in alluvial mud on the shelf 0.5 nm off
Nybo, SW of the bulk mineral loading jetty.
JD did not like the anchorage at the head of the bay since, by the time they were in 12 m
depth with the appropriate scope, the boat was too close to the shore.
SÅ‚rskjomen or Hallarvika (Skjomenfjorden) (2003)
Chart 230; 68°11.8 N, 17°19.5 E
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 21
This is a superbly scenic fjord. When
anchored at the end we felt as if we
had been magically transported to
some high alpine lake.
To find information on this area, look
up Skjomen in Den Norske Los.
The chart names the cove at the
end of the fjord where we anchored
Hallarvika while Den Norske Los
refers to this arm of the fjord as
SÅ‚rskjomen (SÅ‚r-Skjomen on the
chart) but doesn t describe this
anchorage.
Beware that in strong SE and ESE  Morgan s Cloud is dwarfed by the mountains surrounding
Skjomenfjorden.
winds, the Skjomenfjord often sends
unexpectedly heavy blasts several
miles out into the Ofotfjord.
Anchorages, Moorings:
A very good anchorage is found at the bottom of the fjord but beware of the extremely sudden
sand/mud shelf off the stream outlet and the underwater cables E in the fjord.
The Frostisen Glacier lies just above the fjord and there is a charted anchorage just beneath it.
Things To Do:
There is excellent walking ashore up alongside the stream from the anchorage at the bottom of
the fjord.
Narvik (JD, 2005)
Charts 230 and 461; 68°25.9 N, 17°24.9 E
Narvik is a small city in attractive surroundings at the E end of the Ofotfjord, with two mole
harbours. The waypoint given is for the commercial harbour.
Den Norske Los has several aerial photographs and a sketch map of the harbour. The sketch
map shows both of the small boat harbours described below.
Anchorages, Moorings:
" Vassvik Small Boat Harbour is to the N of the city. It is handy to the town but less
quiet and secure. The finger piers appear to be falling into disrepair and there is little
manoeuvering room or depth alongside the docks.
" Ankenes Small Boat Harbour lies 1.3 nm SW of the town and is very quiet and secure,
with friendly cruising sailors and a sailing dinghy program. There is no problem with
depth or manoeuvering room but there are no guest berths as such. The best thing to
do is to tie up to the fuel dock and make enquiries.
For The Boat:
Both harbours have fuel. The fuel pontoon at Vassvik is quite shoal, so watch the tide.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 22
For The Crew:
Showers and laundry facilities are planned for Ankenes, and buses pass by every half hour for
the 15 minute ride to Narvik. There are all facilities in Narvik.
Things To Do:
The excellent war museum in Narvik, Krigsminnemuseum, depicts the fierce naval and land
battles which occurred in 1940. The chart shows numerous large-wreck symbols where large
warships still lie, and one can be seen at the surface in the Rombakfjord. There is a rock
carving very close to the Vassvik harbour.
It may be possible to take a cable car partway up Fagernesfjellet for great views. The day-
return rail trip from Narvik on the Ofotbanen through the mountains to the Swedish border is
an inexpensive and very scenic excursion. At Riksgränsen, a Swedish border town, you can
visit Sven Hörnell s Subartisk photographic gallery. It is also possible to walk back towards
the coast on the Rallarveien trail from Riksgränsen, catching the train back to Narvik at
several places along the way. The weather can change quickly up here so make sure to dress
appropriately. To find out more about hikes in the Narvik region, visit www.narvikfjell.no
(some English information).
Liland (1996/DST, 2007)
Chart 230; 68°28.6 N, 16°53.5 E
On the N central shore of the
Ofotfjord, Liland is in a pretty
farming area offering a soft contrast
to the crags of Lofoten.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are excellent guest pontoons
for small boats or larger boats in
settled weather.
Bogen, 3 miles NE, has an old
wooden quay at which it is possible
to dry on the tide for scrubbing; Looking southeast across the Ofotfjord to the mountains behind
Skjomenfjord with the guest pontoon at Liland in the foreground.
this will greatly excite the local
residents as this operation is virtually
unknown in Norway.
A scenic anchorage (especially useful when the pontoon is bumpy) is found in the Øysund
just NE of Liland, with 4 m depth entering from the SW (stay NW of the channel midline in
the area just NE of the wire); the overhead wire signposted at 15 m high appears to be 26 m as
charted, but beware.
For The Boat:
There is water, electricity and fuel now available on the guest pontoons in Liland.
For The Crew:
There are showers at the clubhouse in Liland.
Things To Do:
The Liland clubhouse provides a grille, BBQ and picnic tables.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 23
Tjeldsundet and Ramsundet
Charts 77 and 230; 68°30 N, 16°20 E
These sounds, separating Tjeldłya from Hinnłya, are quite interesting and pleasant. The
Tjeldsund is a major route between the Vestfjord and areas to the N. In the Ramsund, at the 19
m high bridge, the leading marks (both ahead and behind) must be followed accurately, which
can be difficult due to the strong tidal streams.
Note that although passage through the Ramsund is now allowed (older charts prohibit entry
to certain areas), you are not permitted to moor or anchor as there is a military base and
training centre there. Likewise, fishing and diving is prohibited. Den Norske Los, Vol. 6, has
several sketch maps of the sound.
Harbours further N in the Tjeldsund will be discussed in the next chapter.
LÅ‚dingen (S Tjeldsundet) (HJV, 2006/JD, 2007)
Charts 69 and 230; 68°24.9 N, 15°59.8 E
LÅ‚dingen is a pleasant town and a useful place to wait for suitable weather to cross the
Vestfjord or for a favourable tide to pass through the Tjeldsund.
There is a helpful sketch map of the harbour in Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, as well as an aerial
photograph.
Approaches:
Melkebukta, a fine small-boat harbour formed by moles at the E edge of town, is entered from
the N between 2 lighted perches; dredging in 1995 deepened the entrance and the fueling area
to over 2.5 m depth. The 15 m high overhead cable which once crossed the entrance has been
removed.
Anchorages, Moorings:
1. In Melkebukta, shallow draft vessels can moor alongside finger piers attached to
the pontoon against the S mole, past the pilot vessel and the diesel pontoon, clearly
marked Gjestebrygge. We found 2.5 m depth at low tide alongside and the same in the
approaches. Den Norske Los shows the depth at neaps as 1.4 m in the approaches to
the pontoon.
2. Deep draft vessels will prefer to moor alongside one of the two new 50 m long deep
water pontoons outside the mole harbour, on the S side of the bay. Note that the S side
of the S-most pontoon is used by the Narvik express boat once a day. These pontoons
are exposed to the E.
All pontoons are 50kr/day; use the honesty box.
For The Boat:
Water is available on the pontoons in Melkebukta and electricity is available on all the
pontoons at an extra charge of 15kr/day. Diesel is available near the pilot boat and from the
chandlery at the head of the pontoon during normal business hours for cash or card. The
marine supply shop has a good stock of general boating gear.
For The Crew:
Toilets and showers are available in the red club house on Hjertholmen, next to Melkebukta.
There is a medium-sized ICA supermarket close to the pontoons.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 24
Things To Do:
There are cafés, restaurants and pubs in town and a BBQ facility on Hjertholmen, by
the outdoor stage. Relics from its pilot history can be found at the old pilot station on
Hjertholmen. There are fine mountain walks nearby.
Hinnłya and Adjacent Skerries
On a moderate day, sailing through the intricate channels in the archipelago of small islands S
of Hinnłya is pleasant, especially in a S wind, when the area is nicely sheltered.
SlåtÅ‚ya/BukkÅ‚ya (1996)
Chart 69; 68°25.10 N, 15°51.2 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are a number of scenic sandy anchorages in between the skerries; select for wind
direction.
Offersłya (S Hinnłya) (1996)
Chart 69; 68°18.5 N, 15°38.6 E
Approaches:
The approach is due N between the islets, leaving a single perch to port.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a moderately pleasant harbour with pontoons, likely to be bustling with campers and
tourists at the small hotel. It may be rolly in SW winds.
Hegstadosen (S of Hinnłya) (1996)
Chart 69; 68°19.6 N, 15°32.5 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a scenic sheltered wild anchorage, with a sand bottom and good depth.
Svellingen (1996/MMH, 2006)
Chart 69; 68°17.3 N, 15°20.3 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are several possible anchorages in the Svellingen area:
" In the most attractive anchorage, almost a lagoon, you can tie between the heart-
shaped (or skull-shaped) island 1 cable in diameter (lying E of the centre of Lille
Svellingen) and the tiny islet NW, at the position given above. Entry can be made in
good depth by heading SW from Lysłya Light, then turning N with Lille Svellingen to
port and the heart-shaped island to starboard. Beware of the submerged mooring lines
running from the small pontoon on the small island to the W across to the other side of
the anchorage.
" Another fine anchorage lies 7.5 cables due N of the one just described, E of a charted
rock awash, entered heading ENE, at 68°18.07 N, 15°20.2 E.
" Another anchorage, at the W side of Store Svellingen, is well sheltered even in strong
SW winds, but although it offers beautiful distant views, the anchorage itself is less
attractive. Proceed S along the W side of Store Svellingen, leaving the 3 m sounding
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 25
and tiny islet to starboard, then turn E between the two larger islands lying just W of
Store Svellingen, then turn N into the diminishing channel. There is a small quay to
port with 3.5 m depth, and lines can be taken to bolts on both shores.
" The anchorage charted SE of the NE-most point on Store Svellingen is frequently
rocked by heavy wash from the catamaran coastal express which transits just 1.5
cables N at 38 knots; the effect can be minimized by pulling well in towards the bolt.
Risvćr or Kjeila (1996)
Chart 69; 68°16.3 N, 15°07.5 E
This was once a major fishing port, but now only a few families live in this unique and
interesting tiny community lining the narrow sound, Kjeila, between Borterłya and
Heimerłya. The least depth, 1.8 m, is not far inside the N entrance.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph and sketch map of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
The best quay for berthing is hard to port immediately after entering the sound from the N,
at the SW tip of the quay. The pontoon at the N end of the sound has insufficient depth for
a yacht, but there are several new private pontoons serving holiday cottages which may be
available with permission.
For The Boat:
Fuel is available at the large outside quay.
Steinsł (2003/JD 2007)
Chart 69; 68°15.7 N, 15°04 E
There are magnificent distant mountain views all round the horizon.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a charming and well sheltered sandy-bottomed anchorage at the 4 m sounding E of
Store Steinsłya. The NE entrance channel has more than the charted 2 m depth, but that to the
S has less than the charted 2 m. A very strong current sluices through the anchorage at spring
tides.
It is also possible to anchor just N of the islands at 68°15.9 N, 15°04 E, in 9 m depth with
good holding in sand.
Lofoten
Vestpollen (NW Øksfjorden) (1996)
Chart 69 (inset); 68°30.9 N, 15°32.7 E
At the NW head of a very scenic fjord, this is an exceptionally beautiful and wild anchorage,
with the summit of MÅ‚ysalen soaring 1266 m up from the end of the fjord. The cave Tyvhellar
(Thieves Cave) at the N side of Tyvhellarneset (towards the end of the fjord and S of the 21
m sounding) is mentioned in the Viking sagas as the over-winter refuge of Sigurd Slembe,
who mistakenly entered the Øksfjord thinking it was the Raftsund when fleeing his enemies.
Note that there is a 15 m high overhead cable 3/4 of the way up the fjord.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 26
Anchorages, Moorings:
You can anchor on the charted 3 m rocky and sandy shoal with good swinging room just E of
Tyvhellarneset or on the rather narrow sandy shelf at the end of the fjord.
Kvankjosen (SW Øksfjorden) (1996/MMH, 2006)
Chart 69; 68°22 N, 15°11 E
Near the entrance to the Øksfjord on the port hand, you can meander into this pretty,
interesting and complex group of little coves and islets surrounded by wooded hills, ideal for
shore-side expeditions (especially for children).
Anchorages, Moorings:
Some ingenuity with anchors and
shore-lines might be required to feel
secure in a heavy blow, but the area
is extremely well sheltered. There is
good swinging room, over a shell/
mud bottom.
Things To Do:
There is a nice old trail that runs
N from the village Kvankjosen to
Kongselva on the Raftsund. The
trail can be intercepted by walking
N up the right side of the little river Looking west over a sailboat laced into the very snug little cove
at the far southeast corner of the Kvankjosen anchorage, with the
that runs into the anchorage. Some
entrance off the picture to the right.
scrambling through the woods brings
you to the trail.
Digermulen (SW Hinnłya) (2003)
Chart 69; 68°18.2 N, 14°59.9 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This small harbour has quays, a small pontoon, or it is possible to anchor in settled weather.
In N winds, anchor SSE to the E of Bukkholmen, or 5 miles SSW at Gullvika.
An exceptionally scenic and well protected anchorage is found SE at Valen (it is reported that
there is now 3 m depth where older charts show 1 m entering from the S, since it was dredged
by resident whalers).
Things To Do:
There is a well marked and maintained path to the top of Keiservarden (alt 388 m), which
provides spectacular panoramic views and plaques commemorating the ascents made by the
German Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1889 and 1903.
Tengelfjorden (SW Hinnłya) (1996)
Chart 69; 68°25.4 N, 15°09.30 E
This is a small enclosed cove NE in the Raftsund.
Approaches:
Enter with great care and keep extremely close N of the perch to stay in the best depth.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 27
Anchorages, Moorings:
You can anchor or use a vacant mooring, with permission.
For The Crew:
There is a P.O. and shop.
Things To Do:
There is a nice walk to the lake.
Ingelsfjorden (SW Hinnłya) (1996)
Chart 69; 68°28.10 N, 15°23.80 E
This wild and scenic fjord is located at the NE side of the Raftsund. Note the 21.5 m high
overhead cable. Just S of the entrance to the fjord is the tiny island Gunnar-skjåen, mentioned
in the Viking sagas as a strategic lookout point against potential enemies approaching in the
Raftsund.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a fine anchorage charted just outside the overhead cable, S of Nesłya. You can also
anchor at the end of the fjord at the waypoint shown above, possibly with a line ashore, but be
sure the anchor is properly set as there is extensive weed on the bottom.
Things To Do:
There is a fine walk E on a game trail to the Øksfjord.
Skipłyosen (E Brotłya) (JD, 2005)
Chart 69; 68°29.1 N, 15°12.0 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a scenic and convenient anchorage to wait for the S-flowing tide through the Raftsund.
It is quite well sheltered, with good swinging room in 8 m depth, sand bottom.
A mile SW lies a larger but less idyllic anchorage, S of Hanłya.
Things To Do:
Brotłya is very fine for walking, and there is a notable home bakery on one of the farms at
Brotłen at the W of the island. There is a nice beach.
Grundfjorden (E AustvågÅ‚ya) (1996/MMH, 2003)
Chart 69; 68°23 N, 15°00 E
This is an exceptionally beautiful wild anchorage just NE of the Trollfjord, with a lake just to
the NW and a small herd of elk.
Approaches:
At mid-tide there is a uniform 2 m of water over the shoal at the entry; it would be prudent to
proceed dead slow and on the rising tide unless near HW. Once past the shoal there is good
depth, with shoal areas as charted.
Anchorages, Moorings:
You can moor very near the cascades at the N (in heavy rain the outflow creates a 5 knot side
current), in the tiny cove straight ahead of the entrance channel, or at the SE, in all cases using
shore lines and anchors. With gusting from the mountains, and limited room to manoeuver in,
this fjord is not the best place to be in strong winds.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 28
Things To Do: Looking south over a sailboat laced into the
tiny cove at Grundfjorden, with the entrance
There are beautiful walks in this untouched valley,
through the channel shown on the right side
including to the lake Tverrdalsvatnan (alt 389 m).
of the photo.
Trollfjorden (E AustvågÅ‚ya) (2003/JD,
2005)
Chart 69; 68°21.8 N, 14°56.2 E
The scenery in the Raftsund during the approach to the Trollfjord, an impressively narrow
fjord surrounded by sheer cliffs with snowy peaks, is exceptional. The coastal ships stop at
the Trollfjord every day and the very narrow entrance with its high sides is shown off to best
advantage when dwarfing a large
ship!
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a short, vertically clad
timber quay at the small hydro-
electric station at the head of the
fjord that could be used for a short
stop. There is also a rickety pier
opposite but it was occupied when
JD visited, possibly by the operator
of the small adjacent handicrafts
business. Probably, for most yachts,
a visit to look around will be
sufficient before going elsewhere to
spend the night. The quay at Trollfjorden, a great place to start a walk.
Djuphavn, 5 cables S of the entrance to the Trollfjord, is a tiny crack-in-the-wall where you
can tie between the N and S walls in a real micro-harbour; beware the overhead cable.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 29
Things To Do:
You can walk up along, and in places onto, the
hydroelectric pipeline, and then bear left across a scree
slope to a spectacular lake with superb views well worth
the strenuous effort.
Ulvågen (E Store Molla) (2003)
Chart 69; 68°16.7 N, 14°53.4 E
This is an exceptionally scenic wilderness anchorage at
the end of a small fjord.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good holding and shelter here in all but E
winds. It is a good place when S winds make Gullvika
uncomfortable. Anchor in 15 m depth with 2 anchors as
there is limited swing room. Watch the rocks to the N in
the anchorage.
There are several quays near the entrance of the fjord,
in sheltered and pleasant surroundings, where it may be
possible to tie up.
Gullvika (SE Store Molla) (2003) The snug anchorage at the head of Ulvågen
has just enough room for a boat using two
Chart 69; 68°14.9 N, 14°53.8 E
anchors or an anchor and a line to the
This is an exceptionally attractive and scenic anchorage,
shore.
one of our favourites.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good swing room in the E cove in 4 to 9 m depth, sand bottom, with numerous
mooring bolts around the edges of the cove. This cove is not sheltered in S winds. The W cove
is sheltered from S winds, but there
is a shoal between the coves that
needs half-tide or better for passage.
There are several other anchorages
nearby: Mollgavlen, 4 miles NNE, is
a sheltered and pleasant anchorage,
with the entrance probably needing
half-tide; Ulvågen, a couple of miles
NNE; Krabvågen, 1.5 miles SSW, is
a charming tiny cove with a sandy
bottom in 3 m depth and with a small
beach, somewhat exposed to the S.
Things To Do:
There are good crops of blueberries
on the NW side of the W cove. There
are walks along the old road, now The west cove at Gullvika as seen from just east of the entrance.
Beware the uncharted shallows at the entrance that make an
a trail, to lakes to the N, and to the
exploratory trip in the dinghy a good idea before entering on a
settlement of Brettesnes to the S.
rising tide.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 30
Brettesnes (S Store Molla) (GS, 2006)
Chart 69; 68°14 N, 14°51.25 E
The only shop closed a few years ago.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a sketch map and an aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a guest pontoon (depths alongside not known) and a quay with tires with a few places
where the tires are lower and securing a yacht might be possible.
Things To Do:
There is a lovely walk to Gullvika.
Skrova (2003/HLRB, 2006)
Chart 73; 68°10 N, 14°40 E
Skrova is a large old well-sheltered
whaling harbour 5 miles SE of
Svolvćr. Note that the cable to
Skrova Light has been raised to 22
m clearance and the red spar buoy
in the entrance is now a port-hand
beacon.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both an
aerial photograph and a sketch map
of the harbour. The harbour at Skrova with the mountains of Lofoten in the
background as seen looking northwest from the highest point on the
Approaches:
island. The harbour entrance is to the left.
Enter from the SW.
Anchorages, Moorings:
The floating docks are too small for a
larger boat but there are many quays.
Things To Do:
There are great walks including to a
white sand beach on the other side
of the island and up the mountain for
fantastic views. There is a pub with
excellent meals.
Flłtningsviken (E
AustvågÅ‚ya) (1996)
Chart 73; 68°16.10 N, 14°45.10 E
This is a good place to wait for
the tide if heading N through the
Raftsund. Note that the shoal SW
of Store Kallsłya, a mile E of
Flłtningsviken, has been found Phyllis collects shells on the white sand beach at the end of a walk
on Skrova. This is a scene that looks more like the Caribbean than
to have only 1 m depth just SE of
one nearly 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle; however, a quick dip
Kallsłboen.
will correct any geographical misconceptions.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 31
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is a very pretty anchorage N of Storłya.
Austnesfjorden (SE AustvågÅ‚ya) (1996)
Chart 73; 68°19.2 N, 14°44 E
This is a pretty fjord just E of Svolvćr, with very fine views of the high peaks toward the
Trollfjord. There is a 16 m high overhead cable across Østpollen.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a possible anchorage at Langstrand and better still at Sildpollen. There are mooring
buoys and bolts just outside Sildpollen and a good quay by the church. On the E shore near
a stream there are ruined stone quays (with marginal depth) which make a very pleasant day
stop. The head of the fjord has many pleasantly situated houses and anchoring possibilities.
Things To Do:
A 3 km walk to  the other side takes you to where fisherman used to haul their small boats
across on the snow.
Svolvćr (SE AustvågÅ‚ya) (JD, 2005/HJV,
2006/MMH, 2007)
Charts 73 and 462; 68°14 N, 14°34.10 E
Svolvćr is the  big city of Lofoten.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a sketch map and an
aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are several options:
" There are guest pontoons with water and
electricity in the main harbour. Depths alongside
the pontoons are variable and it is very shallow
(< 1.5 m) at the N end of the inner pontoon. The
charge is 110kr/day and there is an automatic
machine that takes cash or credit cards.
" If they are full, it is possible to tie up to the large
quays right next to the pontoons. The Fisherman s Wife statue on the
breakwater on the east side of the entrance
" There are wooden docks with vertical wooden
to Svolvćr, makes a good landmark for the
slats on the N side of the island with the Anker
arriving mariner.
and Rica Hotel establishment, past the dock
with the sign fortłyning forbudt (no mooring).
Close to the bridge there is only 1.5 m depth alongside. The charge is 100kr/day for
boats under 60 , no facilities.
" The Marinepollen boat-club pontoons in the NW part of the harbour are quieter and
more scenic but less central. With a tall mast, the 14.8 m high bridge on the way to
Marinepollen must be bypassed. Moor at the outermost finger berth or in a vacant
berth. The gates lock at night and you will need a dinghy. The charge is 60kr/day, no
facilities. These pontoons are not suitable for large boats in strong winds.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 32
" It is possible to anchor E of
the Marinepollen boat-club
pontoons in the bay under
the twin-peaked rock spire,
Svolvćrgeita, in 10.8 m
depth, firm alluvial mud,
with good holding, at the
charted anchor sign, inside
the bridge.
For The Boat:
Water and electricity are available
at the pontoons in the town centre.
Diesel is available at Statoil in
Marinepollen N in the harbour, N of Looking southwest over the harbour at Svolvćr, taken from
Svolvćrgeita (Svolvćrgoat). The anchorage described is just off the
the bridge. They take cash or credit
photograph to the left and the Marinepollen pontoons are in the
card and are open 0730 to 2400. Fuel
right centre of the photograph. The docks by the Anker and Rica
is also available at Osan, not far to
Hotel are on the small island with the red buildings in the middle
the W.
of the bridge to the left centre of the photograph. The official guest
pontoons are closer to the harbour entrance, which is shown on the
For The Crew:
top left of the photograph.
It is possible to do laundry at
the marine service station by the
campgrounds (we traveled back and
forth by dinghy) and showers are
available at the Havly Hotel. There
are a wide range of shops.
Things To Do:
There is a very scenic but steep and
strenuous path that climbs to the base
of Svolvćrgeita (Svolvćr goat). At
569 m high, Svolvćrgeita is a rock
spire with twin summits overlooking
the city. Among rock climbers, it is
the thing to jump between these two The wooden wharfs on the north side of Lamholmen, the island
connected by a short bridge to the town of Svolvćr with the large
summits, over hundreds of feet of
Rica Hotel on it. Not to be confused with the larger island Kjełya
open air. Needless to say, we did not
that is also joined by a bridge and makes up the east side of the
try this!
harbour.
A less strenuous hike is up the
Tjeldbergtind (alt 367 m) for nice views of Svolvćr and the coast.
There is a small airport nearby and seaplane sightseeing flights may be arranged from the
harbour. There are museums, art galleries and a fine old church.
Kabelvåg (SE AustvågÅ‚ya) (HJV, 2006)
Chart 73; 68°12.6 N, 14°29.2 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a sketch map and an aerial photograph of the harbour.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 33
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are two new 30 m long
pontoons, built after a winter gale
did damage to the old pontoon. The
charge is 100kr/day.
For The Crew:
There are toilets in the pub.
Things To Do:
The Vågan Kirke (The Lofoten
Cathedral), built to serve the large The floating dock at Kabelvåg looking west.
winter fishing fleet with seating for
more than 1000 people, is worth a visit. It is a nice walk to the museum, gallery and aquarium
at Nyvågar.
Nyvågar or Storvågen (SE AustvågÅ‚ya) (HJV, 2006)
Chart 73; 68°12.45 N, 14°26.2 E
The chart and Den Norske Los refer
to this harbour as Storvågen while
the local name is Nyvågar.
This is a quality tourist development,
with many modern rorbuer (fishing
huts, rented to tourists).
Approaches:
Nyvågar is tucked in a small channel
on SE AustvågÅ‚ya, with the entrance Approaches to Nyvågar or Storvågen
between Sagłya and Reksteinen.
Identify the perch with green
markings 0.5 nm NE of Sagł light. Pass N of this perch. Go past the yellow hotel building and
red service house; the pontoons will appear as you enter the bay. Severe swells enter in strong
SW winds and in winter storms the tide has been known to cover the restaurant floor!
Anchorages, Moorings:
The quay at the restaurant deck is shallow as well as very public. There are extensive
pontoons by the tourist lodgings at Nyvågar Rorbuer: 8 and 10 m long finger berths with
depths ranging from 1 to 3 m. The management can provide an aerial photograph with
the depths shown at all the berths. The charge is 135kr/day, which includes electricity and
showers.
For The Crew:
There are toilets, showers, and a sauna in the hotel.
Things To Do:
There is a restaurant and pub, an aquarium and the Lofoten museum. In the Galleri Espolin,
life from earlier days in Lofoten is compellingly depicted in the works of notable artist Kåre
Espolin Johnson. Kabelvåg is easily visited via a short walk from Nyvågar. Some information
is available in English at www.storvagan.no.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 34
Ørsvåg (HLRB, 2006)
Chart 73; 68°12.38 N, 14°24.29 E
Den Norske Los describes Ørsvåg as one of Lofoten s best harbours with good protection in
all weather. It is home to the Lofoten Tourist and Rorbu Center, which has many services and
facilities.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is good holding with lots of swinging room.
Henningsvćr (2003/HJV, 2006)
Chart 73; 68°09.3 N, 14°12.4 E
Perhaps the best known of Lofoten s
fishing harbours, Henningsvćr,
known locally as The Venice of the
North, is a gem. A group of small
islands connected by moles forms
the harbour, situated at the foot of
high craggy mountains.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial
photograph of the harbour.
Approaches:
Entrance from the W is under an 18
The harbour at Henningsvćr in silver evening light looking south
m high bridge; from the E there is no
from the top of Festrågtind, the mountain just across the bridge on
height restriction.
the mainland.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There seem to be miles of quays at which to berth; seeing Henningsvćr in the summer, you
can hardly imagine that in the winter fishing season it s likely to be filled wall-to-wall with
hundreds of fishing boats.
1. There is a pontoon/dock outside the Henningsvćr Bryggehotel with 2 m depth on the
outside of the pontoon, 0.5 to 1.5 m depth on the inside. The charge is 60 to 120kr/day
depending on the size of your yacht.
2. There is a pontoon outside the Fiskekrogan restaurant but there are railroad ties
sticking out at low tide. With a bit of work it is possible to manoeuvre around them.
The charge is 60 to 120kr/day depending on the size of your yacht.
3. The official guest dock is on the council pontoon S in the harbour by the largest mole.
The charge is 110kr/day.
For The Boat:
Water and electricity are available at all the pontoons. Diesel is available at the Esso by the
mole S in the harbour. They are open 0800 to 1530 and take cash only. Access to their pump is
somewhat limited due to moored boats.
For The Crew:
Toilet facilities are of varying quality. Those at the council pontoon are very basic, while the
Henningsvćr Bryggehotel offers toilets, showers and a sauna. WiFi is available at the hotel
(if moored there they will give you the password in reception); however, WiFi coverage at the
pontoon is limited.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 35
Things To Do:
The Galleri Karl Erik Harr painting
and photography museum is
excellent. A walk up to the Nordland
boat monument by the bridge, or
onto the bridge itself, provides
superb views, as does a walk out to
the lighthouses on the cliffs to the S.
There is a very challenging but
worthwhile hike up Festrågtind, the
mountain on the mainland just to the
N of town (alt 541 m). Henningsvćr Pontoon at the Henningsvćr Bryggehotel.
is home to Nordnorsk Klatreskole,
the climbing school of N Norway, which offers courses and guided climbs. Even if climbing
is not your thing, their café is worth a visit. Henningsvćr has a range of small cafés.
Laukvik or Laukvika (N AustvågÅ‚ya) (PT, 2005/HLRB, 2006)
Chart 75, 68°23.3 N, 14°24.7 E
The name on the chart is Laukvik while Den Norske Los This photo was taken from an anchored boat,
looking northeast at the new inner harbour
refers to the harbour as Laukvika.
at Laukvika. The harbour entrance is off the
This is a friendly fishing village located in the beautiful
photograph to the left and the guest pontoon
is shown on the right of the photograph,
surroundings of the outer side of AustvågÅ‚ya. You can
filled with fishing boats when this picture
get a marvelous view of the midnight sun from here.
was taken.
Laukvik is planning continued improvements to their
marina facilities both to promote use by visiting boats and for the convenience of the fishing
fleet.
Approaches:
Guest berths are in the new inner harbour in a completely enclosed basin, dredged to 6 m
depth. Traveling E, pass S of the outer mole, then turn to the S and leave the inner mole to
starboard. You will then see the new inner harbour ahead of you.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a small boat marina with a guest pontoon, opened in 2005. If there is no room on
the pontoons, there is plenty of swinging room to anchor in good holding or you can tie up
alongside a fishing boat with permission.
For The Boat:
There is electricity on the dock and they are planning to put water on the dock as well.
For The Crew:
There is a general store and a snack shop.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 36
Things To Do:
There is a new community centre, a small museum and a library. There is a community
festival in early July. The scenic roads in the area are suitable for exploration by foot or by
bicycle. There is bus service to Svolvćr, 35 km away.
Borgvćr (NW VestvågÅ‚ya) (1996)
Chart 75; 68°19.8 N, 13°48.5 E
This is an attractive anchorage on the Atlantic side of VestvågÅ‚ya, with an abandoned farm in
an atmosphere of remoteness. Local sailors and fishermen often comment on how fine it is on
 the other side , but few yachts venture over; this anchorage might be a good starting point.
Anchorages, Moorings:
You can anchor in 2.5 m depth, sand bottom, in the cove to the E, with a line ashore.
Stamsund (SE VestvågÅ‚ya) (2003)
Chart 73 (inset); 68°07.5 N, 13°51.1 E
Stamsund is a large old whaling harbour.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both an aerial photograph and a sketch map of the harbour.
Approaches:
Use the SW entrance if your boat has a tall mast since the SE entrance has an overhead cable
with 23 m clearance.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are guest pontoons in the S part of the harbour and good quays.
Things To Do:
There is an interesting puppet shop and theatre, a gallery and a good pub and restaurant.
ĆsÅ‚ya (SE VestvågÅ‚ya) (1996)
Charts 72 and 73; 68°06.2 N, 13°48.4 E
This is an isolated, wild and beautiful anchorage.
Anchorages, Moorings:
The anchorage is in a tiny cove, in 2 to 3 m depth, sand bottom, with bolts on shore. It is best
used in settled weather.
Things To Do:
A slightly difficult scramble to the top (well to the left of the beach, not behind it) offers
exceptional views.
Leknes and LeknessjÅ‚en (SW VestvågÅ‚ya) (VP, 2007)
Charts 72 (inset) and 74; 68°07.8 N, 13°36 E
Leknes is the town located at the head of the harbour and Leknessjłen is the harbour area
closer to the mouth of the inlet.
The nearby small airport is reported as less likely to be fogged-in than the airport at Svolvćr,
making this a good place for crew changes.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 37
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a mole on your port hand side when entering the harbour that separates the
commercial quay from the inner harbour and marina. It is possible to berth on either side of
the 15 m long sturdy pontoon sticking out from the mole, with a depth of 4 m alongside at low
tide and with very good shelter. The charge is 70kr/night, payable in an honesty box on the
dock.
The private pontoon berths in the marina are too small for boats larger than about 25 feet.
There is no room to anchor in the inner harbour, even for a small boat.
Gravdal, just over 1 nm to the SW and site of the regional hospital, has more pontoons but is
not as close to the airport.
For The Crew:
There are a variety of shops in Leknes.
Things To Do:
It is possible to take a bus to the superb Viking museum at Borg.
Ballstad (SW VestvågÅ‚ya) (HLRB, 2006)
Chart 72; 68°04.5 N, 13°32 E
This is a scenic, complex and busy fishing harbour. Note that the charted overhead cable with
17 m clearance has been removed.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both an aerial photograph and a sketch map of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are many quays in the inner harbour and a floating pontoon in the marina to port before
you enter the inner harbour. The charge on the pontoon is 100kr/day, including electricity.
For The Boat:
There is electricity on the pontoon, a chandlery, a shipyard (adorned by Norway s largest wall
painting) and fuel.
For The Crew:
There are shops.
Things To Do:
There is a pub but it is a long walk or dinghy ride from the marina pontoon.
Straumłya (SE Flakstadłya) (2003)
Chart 72; 68°03.8 N, 13°23.7 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is an attractive wild anchorage with an extensive area of 10 m depth for anchoring. There
is a sand bottom and bolts on shore; there are also a couple of small coves one containing
the wreck of a large wooden boat which may have suitable depth.
Things To Do:
There is easy walking on the hills heading W, where you can find signs of cave dwellers.
Nusfjord (SE Flakstadłya) (HLRB, 2006/MMH, 2007)
Chart 72; 68°01.9 N, 13°21 E
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 38
This picturesque harbour is noted for its restored
rorbuer. The entire settlement is now owned by a
private company and there are plans for a major facelift.
Nusfjord made the national headlines in the summer of
2005 when the owners began charging an entrance fee
to the village.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the
fjord.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a floating guest pontoon in this compact and
well-sheltered harbour with an easy entrance. The
charge is 100kr/day, including electricity. Some SW
swell may roll in.
For The Boat:
There is electricity on the pontoon.
For The Crew:
There is a P.O., showers and laundry facilities in the
season.
Things To Do: Alongside at Nusfjord a fishing boat reloads
her herring seine after making repairs.
There is an old-time shop and café in the season. There
is a beautiful 3 mile walk along the
coast to the point, Nesland, to the
SW.
Kunna (1996)
Chart 72; 68°00.3 N, 13°14.3 E
Anchorages, Moorings:
This pleasant wild anchorage gives
good views of the mountains.
The cove is open to the NE, with
anchorage in 9 m depth, sand
bottom.
Sund (SW Flakstadłya)
(HLRB, 2006) Looking east over the harbour at Nusfjord on a winter day. Entrance
to the harbour and fjord is to the right of the picture.
Chart 72; 68°00.2 N, 13°12.4 E
The charted 15 m high overhead cable has been removed.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
This is an attractive well-sheltered harbour at the E side of the Sundstraum between
Moskenesłya and Flakstadłya; the best quays for berthing are well inside on the port hand
(but watch for fresh creosote on the decking).
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 39
Things To Do:
At the museum you can watch the artistic blacksmith Tor-Vegard MÅ‚rkved as he forges a
lump of red-hot iron into a beautiful statue. Or you can watch historic  tonka-tonka marine
semi-diesels being hand-started.
Hamnłya or Havnłya (SE Moskenesłya) (1996/HJV, 2006)
Chart 72; 67°57 N, 13°08 E
Den Norske Los refers to this
harbour as Hamnłya while the chart
uses both names.
Hamnłya is a sister village to Reine,
also spectacular.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a
sketch map and an aerial photograph The council pontoon at Hamnłya or Havnłya.
of the harbour.
Approaches:
Hamnłya lies inside an 18 m high bridge and the final perch in the narrow harbour entrance
must be left to starboard in spite of any red reflecting tape on it.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are numerous quays available, including a council pontoon with deep water on both
sides, S in the harbour. The charge is 60kr/day.
For The Boat:
There is water on the council dock.
Things To Do:
There is a doll museum and an excellent restaurant (Hamnły Mat og Vinbu). The road
between Hamnłya and Reine makes for a pleasant walk.
Kirkefjorden or Kjerkfjorden (SE Moskenesłya) (1996)
Chart 72; 67°59.5 N, 13°01 E
Den Norske Los refers to this harbour as Kjerkfjorden while the chart uses both names.
Inside Reine and Hamnłya (and an 18 m high bridge), the island of Moskenesłya is cut
nearly in two by a triple-pronged fjord, with the N arm, the Kirkefjord, exceptionally scenic.
The Selfjord (between Moskenesłya and Flakstadłya) is on the back-side of the spectacular
scenery in the Kirkefjord, but a detour via the Sundstraum (bridge, 16 m clearance) will likely
prove disappointing.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a fine quay at the very end of the Kirkefjord with a short dredged channel; either drop
a kedge short of the quay, or be prepared to row one out if the wind comes up hard from the S.
It is also possible to swing at anchor and this is what you should do if you are planning to
leave your boat unattended, in case the wind should come up while you are gone.
Things To Do:
There is a fine walk NNW on a path over the saddle to an enormous Atlantic beach at Horseid.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 40
Reine (SE Moskenesłya) (2003/HJV,
2006)
Chart 72; 67°56 N, 13°05 E
Voted by Norwegians themselves as Norway s most
beautiful scenic area, the harbour of Reine is surrounded
by looming spires and cliffs.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a harbour sketch and
an aerial photograph.
Approaches:
Enter between the new mole (not shown in the Den
Norske Los map and photograph) with the lighthouse
to port and Olnilsłya to starboard, then through a well
marked, dredged channel into the inner harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There are two pontoons for visiting yachts:
1. There is a deepwater pontoon to port as you
exit the dredged channel, outside the red shed,
N of the small mole. The charge is 100kr/day,
electricity extra. Pay at the reception desk of the
Reine Rorbuer or in the Gammelbua pub.
2. There is a council pontoon S of the small mole.
While this pontoon is new and appears well  Morgan s Cloud at the pontoon at Reine.
Although it was early September, there
moored, the approach is less suited to deep keel
was already a light dusting of snow on
vessels. You must pass W and S of numerous
the mountains. Reinebringen is in the
perches, which mark a large shallow area. The
background, the top of which is accessible
area is further marked by a rope with balloon
via a steep path on the far side. On reaching
fenders between two of the perches. At LW
the top we were rewarded by the opposite
there is about 2 m depth in the approaches. The view, looking over the near vertical drop at
our boat.
pontoon has 3 m depth alongside on the N side,
but shallows rapidly towards
the parallel pontoon with
moored motorboats. The
S side of the pontoon has
only 1.5 m depth alongside
at LW, and rapidly shallows
towards the shore parallel
with the pontoon. The charge
is 60kr/day. A chip-card for
electricity can be bought at
Statoil on the dock.
For The Boat:
The harbour at Reine lives up to its vote on a calm fall day. The
Water and diesel are available at the
photograph was taken looking north, across the inner harbour. The
council pontoon.
new floating dock is just behind the closest point on the right.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 41
For The Crew:
Toilets are available on the dock
and at the restaurant. Fresh fish
products are sold at a small shop on
the docks. Statoil has a small shop
on the dock. Groceries and a P.O. are
in the shop on the other side of the
harbour (about a 30 minute walk).
Things To Do:
There is a steep but safe trail to the
top of Reinebringen, towering 615
m overhead to the SW, from which Visitors Pontoon
there are breath-taking views. There
are also various trails to the nearby
Visitors Pontoon
lakes and valleys. You can take With Fuel
3
a ferry to Vindstad and then hike
15
across to Bunes on the W coast.
2
N
For further information, have a
look at the Moskenes and Flakstad
municipalities comprehensive web
Reine
page at www.lofoten-info.no and at
Map based on C-MAP cartography
and a sketch by Hans Jakob Valderhaug
local council information, including
Not for navigation.
photos and a crude map, at www.
reinehavn.no (both have links in
English).
Moskenes (SE Moskenesłya) (JD, 2005)
Chart 71 and 72; 67°54 N, 13°02.5 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has both a harbour sketch and an aerial photograph of Moskenes.
Anchorages, Moorings:
JD attempted to anchor in 10 m depth on the charted anchor symbol but couldn t get the
anchor to set. Then, when weighing the anchor they hooked an uncharted, unmarked electrical
cable. They report that there were no other mooring possibilities in the harbour.
A better option for visiting boats is SÅ‚rvågen.
SÅ‚rvågen (SE MoskenesÅ‚ya) (HJV, 2006)
Charts 71 and 72; 67°53.35 N, 13°01.7 E
While Moskenes is a ferry terminal with no facilities for visiting yachts, SÅ‚rvågen is a scenic
old fishing harbour, immediately S of Moskenes.
Approaches:
Enter between the mole heads.
Anchorages, Moorings:
There is a visitors pontoon immediately to starboard as you enter between the mole heads.
The charge is 60kr/day. Alternatively, you can enquire about vacant docking space further in
to the harbour.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 42
For The Boat:
Water is available on the pontoon.
Things To Do:
The Mari Anna pub and restaurant
has occasional live music. There are
some lovely old wooden buildings.
The Norwegian Telecom Museum
is worth a visit: The wireless link
between SÅ‚rvågen and RÅ‚st in 1906
was the first in the country. Have
a look at their web pages at www.
lofoten-info.no/telemuseum (there is
a link in English).
There is a marked trail to the The visitors pontoon at SÅ‚rvågen. The harbour entrance is to the
left of the photograph.
Norwegian Hiker s Association
(Den Norske Turistforening) cabin
at Munkebu and on to Vindstad. Another possible excursion is to take the express boat to
Forsfjorden (inland from Reine) in the morning and then walk inland back to SÅ‚rvågan. This
hike will take you through some of the region s most spectacular scenery. It is also possible to
walk to Å.
Š(SE Moskenesłya) (1996/HJV, 2006)
Charts 71 and 72; 67°52.9 N, 12°59.6 E
This tiny ex-fishing harbour is at the end of the road near the end of the island, and is named
simply with the end letter of the Norwegian alphabet. This notoriety, and the comprehensive
museum, attracts numerous caravan and bus tourists. The scenic small fishing harbours of
Tind, SÅ‚rvågen, and Moskenes are nearby although they are unlikely to prove as pleasing as
nearby Reine or Hamnłya.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Berthing is very limited, but you can probably lie alongside a tourist boat at the quay in front
of the museum; it would be essential to check before leaving your boat unattended. The
harbour is not very well sheltered in strong winds between E and S. We recommend rather
that you moor in SÅ‚rvågen and walk to Å.
Things To Do:
You can visit the excellent Norsk Fiskevćrsmuseum and Tłrrfiskmuseum. There is a bakery,
gallery and some nicely restored buildings.
Buvågen (S MoskenesÅ‚ya) (1996)
Charts 71 and 72; 67°50 N, 12°49 E
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has an aerial photograph of the harbour.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Buvågen is reported to be a good harbour with several large mooring buoys placed by fishing
boats. Strong gusts occur in winds from the E.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 43
Things To Do:
There is a very steep trail with a fixed rope over the ridge-top and down to the cave by
Refsvik.
Refsvik (SW Moskenesłya) (1996)
Charts 71 and 72; 67°50.9 N, 12°50.6 E
Refsvik is on the Atlantic side just around the SW tip of Moskenesłya.
Approaches:
During the early part of the approach, the set from the Moskenstraum may require substantial
compensation; the inner part of the approach is well marked but does require care.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Refsvik is an especially attractive fair weather anchorage, with small beaches below towering
cliffs (likely to give severe gusting in strong E winds).
Things To Do:
Refsvikhule, a moderately interesting cave on the coast 1 km SW from the anchorage, is
reached by a pleasant trail or a short dinghy trip; there are said to be drawings 3000 years old
on the cave walls, and bright flashlights would be useful in searching for them.
There is a trail with a fixed rope that starts near the cave and crosses over the ridge-top to
Buvågen.
A yacht from Tromsł makes landfall at Vćrły
Vćrły (2003/HJV, 2006/MMH, 2007)
on a passage from Reine. The view is of the
Chart 71; 67°39.2 N, 12°42.8 E
east coast of Vćrły.
This spectacular high island has a coastal plain to the
SE with two long peninsulas; between them is the large harbour called SÅ‚rlandsvågen. Some
Dutch friends of ours spent much of an early winter here in their motor-sailor until they
were crowded out by the winter cod fishery and had a wonderful time.
Extensive dredging of the harbour is underway.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has several aerial photographs of the harbour.
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Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 44
Anchorages, Moorings: Overlooking the Vestfjord and Vćrły
harbour, facing east, with the mountains on
There is a pontoon with room for two visiting yachts
the mainland in the far distance.
NW in the harbour. There is no charge and no facilities.
In 2003 we were able to tie to a private quay with
permission. There may also be room to anchor between the many moorings.
There is a small and rather picturesque fishing harbour just E of the main harbour but it is
very crowded.
In fine weather you can anchor off a popular beach just W of SÅ‚rland, or off the abandoned
village Måstad further to the W.
For The Boat:
Bunkeroil on the W side of SÅ‚rlandsvågen is a cheap place for diesel if you pay cash.
For The Crew:
Showers are available at the Havly Fiskarheim (30 minute walk). Two grocery stores are open
from 0900 to 1800, with a P.O. in the shop. There is ferry service to Rłst and Bodł and a
daily helicopter to Bodł.
Things To Do:
There is a nice museum on the N coast. The Cornelius pub occasionally has live music.
It is possible to scramble to the top of Måhornet (alt 445 m), which provides superb views.
There are numerous other less challenging hikes to various bird colonies and to the abandoned
village of Måstad.
A dramatic inner channel lies close off the SW tip of the island, teeming with nesting
birds early in the season, and culminating in a minuscule cove (immediately S of Elsneset
Lighthouse) which can be entered by dinghy in very calm weather.
Rłst (SE Rłstłya) (HJV, 2006)
Chart 70; 67°30.45 N, 12°04.5 E
Low-lying Rłstłya, the outermost inhabited island in Lofoten, offers an unusual atmosphere
of remoteness. The main harbour, RÅ‚st, lies between the two narrow peninsulas with roads
opening SW. Note that dredging has taken place in RÅ‚st in recent years.
Two of the perches marked on the chart and in the sketch in Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, are gone.
Likewise, the charted overhead cable has been removed. The ferry terminal is to be moved to
the other side of the harbour and further dredging is planned.
Den Norske Los, Vol. 5, has a sketch map and an aerial photograph of the harbour.
The owners of Ellefsnyken, Hernyken, Trenyken, Valvćr, Eflateskjer, Storfjell, Stavłya and
their associated skerries prohibit any interference with seabirds during their nesting season
from April 15 to August 15.
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below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and All rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed
you will receive an additional volume of valuable without the express permission of the publishers.
general cruising information about Norway and 2008 Edition, Version 1.00, 25th February 2008
Svalbard.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 45
Approaches:
Several approaches are possible:
1. From the S: Most vessels will
prefer this approach through
Ramskjćrleia for a first time The Rłst council wharf, big enough to host a whole fleet of cruising
boats.
visit. There is a useful sketch
in Den Norske Los, Vol. 5,
for the final part leading into the harbour NE of Glea. Note that two of the marked
perches are gone due to recent dredging.
2. From the E: On passage from Vćrły in settled conditions the approach from the E
through Blomskjćrleia is feasible for yachts with a draught < 2 m. In poor visibility
Brattklakkleia, passing S of Brattklakkskallan, would be preferable, as Staven (alt 140
m) is a conspicuous landmark. The passage on from Brattskjćret Light is well marked
and lovely. Note that you must pass S of Nordholmen and SÅ‚rholmen and then N of
Lyngvćrłya.
3. From the SW: The passage from Skomvćr Lighthouse passing SE or NW of Vedłya
is strewn with unmarked hazards but feasible on a calm day. The high islands of
Trenyken, Storfjellet and Vedłya are a stunning backdrop to this route, and there are
large colonies of puffins and cormorants as well as many eagles.
4. Approaches from the N and NW: We have no personal experience with the charted
approaches from the N and NW. These approaches are the standard approaches to the
fishing fields and are used by the hundreds of vessels that converge on RÅ‚st during the
winter fisheries. They are well marked but less suitable for a first time visit.
In heavy weather, approaching an unfamiliar RÅ‚st would be dangerous.
Anchorages, Moorings:
1. A fine new quay lines the long mole on the NW side of the main harbour, NE of Glea.
No facilities and no fee.
2. In strong SE winds better shelter may be found at the wooden quay immediately to the
E of the NE end of the new quay.
3. It may also be possible to moor further into the harbour, but note that it is shallow in
places.
4. There is a new dock with vertical wooden slats outside the RÅ‚st Bryggehotell SE of
Glea, opposite the large red buildings with the large seagull colony. There is only 1.5
m depth (N) to 2.5 m depth (S) alongside. There is a small pontoon. The charge is
100kr/day with water and electricity available on the dock.
5. There is also a small mole harbour at Nes, E on Rłstłya, with a council dock with 2 m
depth alongside, useful for a short stay. This harbour is otherwise occupied by moored
fishing boats.
For The Boat:
Water and electricity are available on the docks at the RÅ‚st Bryggehotell. Diesel is available at
a couple of the fish plants.
If this isn t your copy, please go to the web site ©2008 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd
below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and All rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed
you will receive an additional volume of valuable without the express permission of the publishers.
general cruising information about Norway and 2008 Edition, Version 1.00, 25th February 2008
Svalbard.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 46
For The Crew:
Toilets and showers are available in the RÅ‚st Bryggehotell. Groceries are available at Glea
and at the Joker by the church. There is a P.O. on Glea. Internet is available at the Querini
restaurant and pub. And if maritime delicatessen is your thing, their Italian-style stockfish
should be sampled.
Things To Do:
There is a pub and restaurant at the RÅ‚st Bryggehotell. The RÅ‚stmat café and bakery is located
by the church (they don t bake every day). The church altar-screen is an art treasure donated
to RÅ‚st in 1520 by the Netherlands Princess Elisabeth  in heartfelt thanks for surviving a
stormy voyage , a sentiment which will no doubt find sympathy in the heart of the modern
cruising mariner (Alstahaug has an altar-board from the same source).
You can walk to the old church ruins N on the island and then stroll through Nes, the oldest
settlement on RÅ‚st.
RÅ‚st has a large production of stockfish, primarily for the Italian market. In summer the final
quality control takes place, and you can inspect the winter s production before it is shipped
out in late summer.
On Storfjell are remnants of a 13th century settlement. At the centre of Sandłya is the Querini
monument to the Italians shipwrecked there in 1472 who, after wintering with the sheep
farmer from RÅ‚st who found them in December, wrote a remarkable description of RÅ‚st still
in the Vatican archives.
Vedłya (MMH, 2007)
Tens of thousands of kittiwakes nest on Vedłya, which is part of the Rłstłyan nature reserve.
Depending on the time of year, there may be restrictions on landing on the island. We suggest
you enquire locally about current restrictions.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Anchoring here is only advisable in very calm weather.
There are three possible anchorages on Vedłya:
1. On the E side of Vedłya, S of the tiny island of Rłdtoppen, as charted. There is a
strong mooring bolt on the shoal.
2. In a tiny crack at the SE
extremity of Vedłya.
3. In extremely calm weather
it may be possible to anchor
off the sizable cave on the N
of Vedłya that is used as a
nesting ground by kittiwakes.
Things To Do:
From the first anchorage described
above you can scramble to the
flat top of Vedłya (alt 205 m) for
beautiful views over the islands
of Rłstłya. The second and third A sailboat is tied into the tiny anchorage on the east side of Vedłya,
showing the bow line tied to the strong mooring bolt on the shoal.
If this isn t your copy, please go to the web site ©2008 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd
below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and All rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed
you will receive an additional volume of valuable without the express permission of the publishers.
general cruising information about Norway and 2008 Edition, Version 1.00, 25th February 2008
Svalbard.
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Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten
Norwegian Cruising Guide, Volume II 47
anchorages are good places to
observe the kittiwakes on their
nesting grounds.
Skomvćr (2003)
Chart 70; 67°24.5 N, 11°52.5 E
The distinctive triple peaks of Trenyken where a recently discovered
The small, low island of Skomvćr is
cavern contains a stone age painting.
at the very tip of the 120-mile long
Lofoten chain, where the mountain
ridge forming the islands finally
sinks entirely under the sea. Just
N of Skomvćr are several large
grotesquely-shaped islands. On triple
peaked Trenyken, a deep cavern has
recently been discovered containing
a stone-age painting.
Anchorages, Moorings:
Surrounded by numerous outlying
skerries, Skomvćr offers only a very
marginal anchorage, shown on the
chart, to the S in 20 m depth.
Things To Do:
We picked very settled weather,
anchored here, landed by dinghy
at the wharf used to service the
light and had an interesting visit
The lighthouse and station buildings at Skomvćr, now no longer
and walk around. But then I (John)
manned, mark the end of the line for a cruiser exploring the Lofoten
have a thing for remote lighthouses
chain, or the beginning of a wonderful cruising ground if coming
and islands; Phyllis was not as
from the south.
impressed!
If this isn t your copy, please go to the web site ©2008 Attainable Adventure Cruising Ltd
below and buy one. The cost is reasonable and All rights reserved. Not to be copied or distributed
you will receive an additional volume of valuable without the express permission of the publishers.
general cruising information about Norway and 2008 Edition, Version 1.00, 25th February 2008
Svalbard.
www.norwegiancruisingguide.com
Bodł to Narvik with Lofoten