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Sewing In Sleeves

Sewing sleeves on using invisible stitch: Always alternateły catch 1 whole stitch of the sleeve, and 1 or

2 horizontal threads of the front or back.

You have to set the sleeves in with special care. This seam should always !x.‘ sewn before you sew the side and sleeve seams.

Straight and Slightly Rounded Sleeves

Thesc slecics should .ilw.iv' be scwn in front ilu- iHiiside, using invisible stitch or back stitch. This is rhe onty way to kcep the seams straight with the stitchcs.

Lay the pieces, openeJ out, on to a counter or tablctop. Pm the sleeees exactly into place s»> that nothing can puli out of shape while you are sewing. Surt piiuung at the shoułJcr, in rhe center of the ślecie. anJ at tlić corncrs of the slcews. Tlien pin the rest of rhe top slceve edge at intcrvals of 2".

While you are sewing. pay attentton to the gauge. Por parts worked in stockinerte stitch, you have ro go around 1 horizontal thread instead of 2 everv ) stitchcs when sewing im is-ihlc sntch, and around i instead ot 2 horizontal threads when sewing back stitch. If you hnve pinned the parts together carefulh. it should hc easy to check the seam.

If you havc Ktund oflf the slccvc stitchcs, you can now work in invis-ible stitch. Always go alternateły around 1 sleeve stitch and I or 2 horizontal threads of the front or back.

The seam will be cvcn flatter if you sew the open slccec stitchcs on using back stitch. To do this. tirst bind the

When sewing a sleeve on in back stitch, undo the binding off row 1 stitch at a linie.

stitchcs offloosely, so that they won't eonie undonc when you błock rhe piece. Now pin the sloci e to the front and back. as descrik-d. and undo the bindłng-ofl row, littlc Iw little, as you sew the seam. Work the seam irom light to Icft as folkiws:

First draw the yam through the front or back, tirom bottom to top, next to the selvedge stitch. then through the tirst sleeve stitch. Now insert the nccdle directly to the right, trom top to bortom, and como out again tirom bottom to top, 2 horizontal threads farther along,

The back slitches form a seam that looks similar to a row of purl stitches.

catching the sccond slccee stitch. Hien go back down through the tirst 'Icciv stitch and the front or back, and 2 horizontal threads farther along through the front or back, and out through rhe rhird slccec stitch. Go back down through the sccond >leeve stitch and back out again 2 horizontal threads farther along, and through the lourth slcevc stitch, etc. (sec aUo sewing on tacings. pages 70—72).

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