65575 IMGR49 (2)

Chapter Seven

THE CENTRES OF PRODUCTION

Soch was che famę of thcse varioui dccoraiive leathcrs, che credit for thc main devclopmcnt of which mon go to Moorish Spain, that thcy wete vety quickly copicd or adapccd in othcr para of Europę cvcn at an carly datę. We learn, for exampie, that by thc carly thirteenth ccntury ‘Cordovan‘ lcathcr madę outside Spain, as well as thc alum cmployed in its production, wcre among thc main ardclcs of nade at fairs in noithcrn France.¹ A lawsuit of 1221 makes it elear that thesc wcre ‘pśatcd* products: ccrtain merchants, having bought finc shecp and calf ikins in Tunis, had them uwed in Pisa and then offered them for ule in Champagnr.¹ In 1241 we hear of 1e corduan dc Li mogą et de Toulouse’* and at an unspccificd datę in the same ccntury, of 'corduan de Provence\ Tlierc are rccords that both Piu and Genoa had flourishing uades in ‘Cordovan* leather in the thirteenth ccntury.⁴

France

In 1 j jo Courroyeurs it Ctriien in Paris wcre regulatcd.* In i$94 a Charter was granted to the Dereurs sur Cnir, ganissturs et tnjollmrs which permitted them to make. in addkion to gilt leather hangings, a widc rangę of furnishings in which leather was cmployed, in-cluding cabinets, coffcrs, shelves and mirror fu mes; thcy also secured registratton of a punch (prnfon) with which indhridual makers wcre requircd to mark their wara. The

¹ Singer, Charln, TW EtrlieU Chrmlul Uiutr/, 1948. p, 84.

•    Singer, Charta, op. di., p. 84.

•    Tant car. du Canul. de Lani*, ii a¹ o (Cay |. 417)

•    Notes de Rutebeuf (Cty I. 427;.

¹ Or&mwff/ it! Ralf dr Franie, XIV (1729) jaj.