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Fig 25

Enlarging the Błock for outer garments, 25a    ^NP

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25. Enlarging the Błock for outer garments

This example illustrates the method of enlarging the Błock. Amounts to be added for different garments are indicated in their captions.

a. Enlarging the bodice. Tracę off your personal Błock. Add 0.5 cm to CF and CB, and 1 cm to each side seam; lower the underarm (UP) by 1 cm Redraw the outlines. This has added 3 cm to the Błock width, and therefore 6 cm to the whole bodice - enough for a close-fitting outer garment such as a cotehardie.

Adapting the Błock to add length, width or fullness, Fig 26

26. Adapting the Błock to add length, width or fullness

There are three ways of doing this, which can be used in combination.

a.    Extending the Błock This is the normal way of adding skirts, also of making patterns slightly wider.

b.    Slashing and spreading This is mainly used in this book for sleeves. Cut the pattern into pieces and space them out.

c. Slashing and flaring. Slash the pattern from one edge almost to the other. Open the cut at one edge, so the other edge retains its original length. This method is used for one gown (Gowns, Fig 18, Pis 12 & 13) and for making pattern pieces such as cuffs. Make a rectangle as long as the wrist end, and as wide as the proposed cuff. Slash it into equal sections and fan them out evenly, then retrace the long edges as smooth curves.

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