6. Layout for Fig 5
The cote is planned on 3.3 m of cloth, 150 cm wide. This is for approximately modern size 12. Larger sizes may require morę than twice the garment length. Start by sketching a plan of the pattern parts, with the largest and longest first.
The sleeves are planned fairly wide at the shoulder, tapering to a narrow wrist, and will need fitting on the arms later. The four side gores are planned wider than the two centre gores. Each centre gore can be cut in one piece. The spare cloth could provide an extra gore on each side of the cote, with the straight edges sewn to the Front.
Join the straight edges of all side gores to the body.
5. Woman's finer cote, mid 13th to early 14th century
A fuli length cote in fine cloth, to fit a smali woman. The front slit is secured with a brooch. The sleeves are tight-fitting on the forearm, achieved by stitching the lower sleeve closed on the wearer, and pouched above. Alternatively, this style could have shoulder shaping and a close-fitting sleeve (Fig 9). The cote has extra length to drape over the belt, and to hide the feet.
80