79085 tmta3

Fabńc ąuantities, pattem layout and piecing, Fig 28 For average-sized men, a doublet will come out of 1.5 m of 150 cm wide fabric. For gowns and long dresses allow at least twice the length of the finished garment, and for large sizes or very fuli styles allow the length of the sleeves as well; most of these garments are shown laid out on the fabric, which will help you estimate how much you need.

28. Piecing patterns

These examples show the proper use of piecing.

The Straight Grain of the piecing must be the same as in the main pattern and seam allowances must be added to both edges.

For the hose pattern only one of the three piecings should be used at a time.

To plan a cutting layout always start with the biggest or most awkward pieces. For the medieval tailor the fabric was by far the most expensive part of the exercise, so materiał was saved by 'piecing' - adding a smali bit to the edge of a pattern piece to allow it to be cut economically. Careful piecing can save a surprising amount of materiał.

Piecing should be discreet as well as careful. Remember that both edges will need a smali seam allowance, and that the piece added must be on the same grain. Sew on the piece before starting to make up the garment.

'Wheel piece' for skirts on narrow cloth.

Left Cut the 'missing' triangle as shown, and reverse it to complete the skirt.

Right 'Wheel piece' in position, shown on the wrong side.

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