59910 tmta3

Shoulder and armhole fit

8. lmproving shoulder and armhole fit    b. Narrow tapered sleeve with a lozenge-shaped

The improvement is achieved by adapting the top of gusset. This works best with lighter cloth.

the front and back body, and using close-fitting    c. Partly shaped sleeve head. Adjust a tapered

sleeves.    sleeve to fit a shaped armhole by trimming away the

a. Shaping the body. Cut the rectangular body and corners at the underarm.

adjust it by sloping the shoulder seams and/or

shaping the armhole a little. Use with sleeves in b or

c, orthe transitional sleeve (Fig 9).

9. 'Transitional' sleeve, from 1300

Moving the seam from the underarm to the back offered closer fitting and a better position for displaying the fashionable buttons. This sleeve is suitable for cotes with shaped armholes (Fig 8).

J_I_L

20 cm

a.    Sleeve seen from the back, with gusset and buttons

b.    Sleeve plan. Start the pattern from the rectangle, shown by fine lines. The sleeve width should allow an easy fit on the upper arm, not much smaller than the armhole measurement. Plan a slightly curved top edge, and widen it to match the armhole with a triangular gusset in the sleeve seam (heavy broken lines). The highest point of the sleeve lies over the shoulder, with the seam and gusset at the back of the arm. Taper the sleeve below the elbow to the wrist. Try out the pattern in calico first. Fasten the wrist opening with at least six buttons.

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