Part Three - Finishing the base
Adam Wilder demonstrates the
techniques behind his STZ T-34/76
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Painting the Base
It is important that the painting of the base
be completed to the same quality as the
model. A poorly finished base will detract
from a model’s convincing paint job. This
was the first time I have painted anything
like this base so this is what I did…
Photos 1 through 5
Using a piece of concrete as my example,
I first painted the whole base with an
undercoat of mixed acrylics. I decided to
paint and detail the wood next. As always,
I painted the old areas and the freshly
broken areas of wood with a base of
acrylics. After painting the base, a wash of
enamels was added. After letting the wash
dry for about 15 minutes I added chips to
the wood using the same mixture of
acrylics as in photo three. Focus most of
the chips on the edges and ends of the
wood. I then mapped the chips with a
mixture of enamels and oils for further
depth. With the wood completed I moved
onto the wall.
Photos 6 through 8
I first painted all of the freshly broken brick
with a lighter shade of the base colour. I
then shaded different areas with washes of
acrylics to break up the wall. After shading
the bricks I applied an extremely heavy
wash between the brick, using grey
enamels. A lighter wash of grey enamels
was also brushed across the rest of the
bricks on the base.
Photos 9 through 11
While I waited for the washes on the wall
to dry, I added some heavy washes of
earth colours around the perimeter of the
base with lighter earth washes over the
brick hill of the base. I then moved back to
the wall adding dark grey streaks I
observed in actual photos. I kept the
streaks on what would have been the outer
sides of the walls. I have noticed different
faint red and oxide colours on light grey
bricks such as the ones used on my base.
After placing the streaks, I added thinned
faint red oxide colours to the upper halves
of some of the bricks on both the walls and
on the base.
Photos 12 through 13
After affixing the oxide washes, I brushed
on an off-white colour to the upper edges
of the bricks on the walls and base for
extended depth. Although more time
consuming, brushing on highlights with a
fine brush as shown in photo 12 gives you
more control, keeps the lighter coloured
paint more refined, and does not subtract
from the other faint colours added in
previous steps. Highlights were also added
to the brick to represent chips as they
crashed and rolled into each other when
they fell. Dry-brushing the whole base
would look nice from a distance but
unrealistic when viewed closely.
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Photos 14 through 15
The final touch to the base was done by brushing on dry
pigments. When you have buildings collapsing and artillery
throwing earth in the air, large amounts of dust will settle over
everything. Earth coloured dust was heavily added to the outer
perimeter of the base while lighter amounts were brushed over
the bricks, wood, metal and wall. Lighter grey dust was also
added over the entire base.
After adding dust, the T-34 was reattached to the base.
The sections of sheet metal as well as the steel beam were
simply painted like the T-34. Painting the perimeter with a nice
colour contrasting the overall tone of the base greatly adds to the
final appearance.
I would like to thank the following:
David Sproul and the gang at Inness Photo for their priceless help
and advice.
Steven Brezinski for all of his Humbrol suggestions as well as the
encouragement of all my Spanish friends and the support of the
Ise Flying Venus crew.
Jon Tamkin at www.missionmodels.com for the supplies and new
finishing products.