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Gorget - See Men's hoods, Fig 6.

Grain - Direction of the warp threads on a woven fabric.

Gusset - Smali piece of fabric, usually square or triangular, inserted to enlarge part of a garment, here a sleeve (Cotes, Fig 8).

Hennin - Conical head-dress fashionable at the French and Burgundian courts, (Fashionable head-dresses, Fig 15).

Flomed head-dress - Head-dress based on a pair of stiffencd shapes (Fashionable head-dresses, Figs

11,13).

Houppelande - Fashionable gown for men and women, often high necked and fitted down to bust level, then flowing out below into rich folds; with open s!eeves (Gowns, Fig 12).

Jerkin - See coat.

Kerchicf - Plain piece of linen used in dress, here as a head covering (Linen head-dresses, Figs 18c2).

Liripipe - Long taił of a hood or chaperon (Men's hoods, Fig 6).

Mantle - Ceremoniał form of cloak worn by men and women (Cloaks, Fig 2).

Mitten cuffs - Cuffs on tight, buttoned sleeves, extending to the knuckles, seen mainly on women's garments (PI 2).

Modelling - The process of making a pattern by fitting fabric round the wearer's body.

Ncbula head-dress - Frilled veil (Fashionable head-dresses, Fig 5).

Open sleeve - Normally a gown sleeve, flared out to the cuff and sometimes reaching to the ground. Overkirtle - Here describes the outer garment seen on women at work, see Outer working garments.

Paltok - Fashionable doublet (Doublets, Fig 3). Parti-coloured - Garment divided vertically in two colours, fashionable in the 14th century.

Piecing - Making up a pattern piece by joining smaller bits of fabric for economy.

Points - Ties used to fasten men's clothing, holding hose to doublet. Madę of leather, tape, ribbon or cord finished with aglets (Methods, Fig 18).

Roundlct - See Men's hoods, Fig 6.

Selvedgc - Edge of a woven fabric, finished so that it doesn't unravel.

Shift - See smock.

Shirt - Man's undergarment, usually linen (Body linens, Fig 2).

Sleeve head - Top edge of the sleeve, fitting over the shoulder and sewn to the armhole.

Smock - Woman's undergarment, usually linen (Body linens, Fig 3).

Stomacher - Triangular piece of fabric, usually on a backing, worn by men and women to fili in a wide neck or front opening. Could be in rich materiał, or embroidered.

Tablet weaving - Ancient technique for making ribbons, belts and trimmings.

Tail-clout - Linen square, often of diaper weave; nappy.

Templers - Stiffened head-dress components worn in pairs (Fashionable head-dresses, Fig 9).

Tippet - Extension of the sleeve hanging front the elbow, or streamer hanging from the upper arm of a shortened sleeve (Cotehardies, Figs I&2).

Toile - Pattern in sturdy fabric used for modelling or trying out a pattern.

Tunic - Alternative name for the cotc or ffock or other loose garment.

Twill - Weave structure showing characteristic diagonal lines on its surface.

Vamp - Upper part of a shoe or hose foot.

Veil - Head covering of fine linen or other fabric usually draping the head and shoulders, or in dark-coloured cloth worn for warmth over a kerchief (Cloth head-dresses and hoods, Fig 1). Also part of a fashionable head-dress (Fashionable head-dresses, Fig 5).

Warp - The lengthways threads of a woven fabric. Wcft - The crossways threads of a woven fabric. Wimple - Part of a woman's head-dress covering the neck up to the chin, sides of the face, and hair (Linen head-dresses, Figs 4&5).

Wheel piece - Smali gore added to widen a skirt at the hem.

Worsted - Fabric of eombed wool yarn with a smooth lustrous finish.

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