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Lacing and eyelets

16. Working eyelets

Trim down the seam allowances and hem or top stitch the garment edges, to reduce bulk. Mark the eyelet positions with pins, not morę than 3 cm apart and within 15 mm of the garment edge. Use a heavy top-stitching or buttonhole thread.

a.    Outline the eyelet with a ring of stab-stitching and force the weave apart with a stiletto, centre. If you can't find one, a neatly sharpened stick will do.

Push steadily, from either side in turn, until the hole almost reaches the stitching at the edge.

b.    & c. Use oversewing (b) or blanket stitch (c) to reinforce the opening. Lay the stitches so they just touch round the hole. Bring up the thread just outside the ring of stab-stitch. Puli each stitch tight. d. & e. Completed eyelets; oversewn (d) and blanket stitched (e). They should form a smali, tight ring; finish off the thread with a few smali stitches on the back.

Eyelets are also used on mantles, for cords or metal ornaments to pass through, and for the buckie pins on fabric belts. The latter are generally madę on a firm foundation, so for this you need to make a hole with a leather punch before stitching round it.

17. Methods of lacing

Tie one end of the lace into the lowest eyelet and pass the other end through each eyelet on alternate sides, as shown. At the top thread back through one eyelet and tie a knot. The edges of the garment are shown open for clarity, but should meet in wear. a. The usual method, with the lace passed through each side in turn.

17 a

b.    The lace passes through two eyelets on each side in turn, to form a 'ladder'.

c.    Concealed lacing. This came with the fitted gowns of the late 15th century: tiny brass rings were sewn inside the front opening of the gown and the lace passed through them in a 'ladder' as in b. The smallest brass curtain rings can be used for this.

b    c

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